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Transmission cooling lines

NOOBGUY88

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mountainhome, ID
Ive recently had problems with my transmission cooling lines getting crshed by the front suspension when taking tight turns or going off road..... I want to modify the lines to steel braided lines but ive yet to come across anyone that has maybe done something similar so I know whether im wasting my time or not..... :confused:
 
A bunch of people replace the section that gets crushed with rubber line and relocate it to keep it out of the problem area. You are not alone, the UCAs tend to intrude at times.
 
It would be a whole lot cheaper to just reshape the hard line out of the way of the control arm. A braided line would cost a bunch. If you know anyone who has a bubble flaring tool you can just cut a section out of the hard line and use rubber hose to replace it routing it up out of the way.
 
you can just cut out the damaged part (if its totally crushed) and just clamp on some rubber.
 
Thanks for the advice. I already spliced rubber hose sections on the part of the lines that were crushed. but it only holds for so long....it inevitable for the oil to deteriorate the rubber.... plus Im going for materials that last and look clean..... ive got an idea of how to install the braided lines...its just i was wondering if anyone else has attempted this mod...
 
If you use rubber line designed for transmission fluid it'll be fine - the OEM lines have the same material used and my set rusted out along the metal portions before the rubber portions broke down. They lasted 200k miles in the northeast.
 
Ok...I COULD get the oem hoses....But the only problem with that is I live in idaho...and not the pretty part..it gets really hot and dry here....so dry rotting is a BIG problem....Whereas rust is not... You see my point on why I would want to use steel braided lines....
 
There are still other hose options. You could use Parker 836 hose, which is a much better hose than the standard transmission hose. Parker and Gates may also have other options.

Edit: Are you talking about braided hose and AN fittings?
 
What I had in mind was to cut and flange the last 2-3" on the end connected to the transmisson and installing fittings and orings on those to thread the steel braided lines to...Then just run the lines up and over the engine mount to the radiator...And the fittings connecting to the cooler can be modified with just diff size reducers...
 
Steel braided lines are usually used with AN fittings. The hard line would be cut, and an AN nut and sleeved put on the hard line then flare the hardline to 37*. Not sure why you would use o-rings.

Similar to what I did here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1026658&highlight=transmission+cooler+parker

I didn't use braided line, and I used push lock fittings.

If you use braided line you have to find one compatible with Dex transmission fluid. However, I am not sure that the braided line will help your dry rot issue as there is rubber hose inside that braid.
 
If you want to go all AN, there are adapters available for the AW4 connections. I can't remember the exact spec, but they are marketed as PS adapters - maybe 14mm (the results should come up in search). You can then run any style AN line you like from there. I used the annealed aluminum fuel line and bent it however it needed to be bent to get up front without being in the way - no problems with this setup so far (five years?).

And, although it isn't the right thing to do, I used my 45 degree flare tool for the flaring. Maybe it is because the aluminum is soft enough to deform and seal okay, but I have used a 45 degree flare for a number of different aluminum lines I have run (including HP FI lines), and have never had a leaking problem...
 
Id be looking to find the cause of the problem and fix that(bad motor mounts or improper bumpstops).
 
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