No Start MJ...

1989, 2.5l, 4spd manual, 2wd, shortbed.

Pulling into the Driveway yesterday my lower rad hose burst. Unrelated, I know. Went and got a new one today and set up for a back flush while I was at it. Got the hose running and jumped in to start it, nothing. Well, lights and gauges work, battery shows low but still enough to start, and fuel pump kicks on. The nothing comes in when you turn the key to start. No clicks, beeps, or whistles. Temp gauge jumps like it should and the others fall as they should. However, I don't even hear the starter solenoid engage. So I pull the Cherokee up and connect up the cables. Same story, no effect at all from jumping. Keep in mind that the radio and accessories in the cab work just fine, the jump was just for shits and giggles. Checked all the connections I could see in the engine compartment, all seemed fine. Double checked the sensor connections and all those looked good too.

Anyone have this with a 4cyl renix rig recently? My clutch start switch has never worked, so I doubt it is suddenly a problem, but I guess it is a start. I can normally start the truck in gear or out of gear without the clutch in. I prefer it this way as it always gives me a way to clear the truck off the road using the starter.


so ???

did you check for a loose/broken/burnt wire on the starter solinoid or starter?

do you have a multimeter, you need to trace the curcuit.

Refresh all your grounds and check your battery cable connections to the starter and block.

Did not see anything wrong with the starter or solenoid, they were replaced as a unit less than a year ago.

Grounds and battery cables look fine. Were taken off and cleaned before I went on leave a few weeks ago. Which is worth mentioning. I flushed all fluids and cleaned everything up real nice 3 weeks ago because two weeks ago I drove 600ish miles up to NC, and came back last weekend. No problems all the way. Drove the truck around all week same story. Cut it off yesterday afternoon after coming back from a round of golf and no start the next day. Full electrical power though.

I was thinking CPS, but not so sure now.

Could be the keyswitch. Check for 12v at the solonoid on the wire from the switch when you turn the key. If there's no 12v, it's a bad switch or a break in the wire somewhere. You can also check for 12v at the switch. Also check for 12v on the wire from the battery; unlikely to be bad if it passes visual, but what the heck. Having the schematics helps greatly in a situation like this; if you don't have the FSM, I suggest alldatadiy.com. Haynes/chiltens schematics are totally useless, but you probably know that already.

Clutch start switch? Just jumper it, fix it permanently.

Yea, I have an FSM on my computer somewhere, still hunting around for it. After updating my OS and swapping Hard drives a time or two since the last time I used it I am a bit disorganized.

I am not scheduled tomorrow so I will check around the column tomorrow. Clutch start switch has been broken since the day I got it. I guess maybe it could have gone from a failed closed condition to a failed open condition resulting in a no start. I was hoping for something easy like a CPS plug, but with the fuel pump cutting on I feel like it has to be in the starting circuit.

The crank position sensor is not going to be the source of a no crank situation.

Battery, cables, starter relay, NSS or clutch switch, starter/solenoid, ignition switch, key cylinder/remote rod to the ignition switch, associated wiring--those are no crank sources.

I'd put a voltmeter across the battery and see what it drops to when you turn the key to start.

it does sound like something easy, something a multimeter/voltmeter and some testing will pick up right away.

Now that it is light outside I am gonna try to get some testing done before the sun scorches me back inside.

So naturally after I find my multimeter and FSM, find the correct batteries that go to meter, and get the FSM loaded up on my Sony EReader, I go outside and the damn thing fires right up. Making troubleshooting a bit of an issue. I did however get the cooling system topped off and burped so now the 6hr cleaner I dumped in yesterday can get to work. Guess I will be back to this thread if/when it pulls this stunt again.

wolfpackjeeper said:

So naturally after I find my multimeter and FSM, find the correct batteries that go to meter, and get the FSM loaded up on my Sony EReader, I go outside and the damn thing fires right up. Making troubleshooting a bit of an issue. I did however get the cooling system topped off and burped so now the 6hr cleaner I dumped in yesterday can get to work. Guess I will be back to this thread if/when it pulls this stunt again.

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sounds like when the hose let go, something got wet and prevented it from starting or that clutch switch is acting up. also take a look at the ignition switch rod or starter relay.

Yea, I was thinking the hose may have sprayed something, but it really was not much of a split, it only got the block within about a 2in radius where no electronics are. Most of the split was under the clamp.

I got to get hunting around for the clutch start switch, it is not under the dash were I expected it.

wolfpackjeeper said:

Yea, I was thinking the hose may have sprayed something, but it really was not much of a split, it only got the block within about a 2in radius where no electronics are. Most of the split was under the clamp.

I got to get hunting around for the clutch start switch, it is not under the dash were I expected it.

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your mj must be different then my 89 5 spd xj, as my 89 does not have a clutch safety switch. ive owned it since 1990 and ive never had to push the clutch in to start it, although i do out of habit.

sweet, I just assumed there would be one, up until today I had never looked for it. Standard safety feature on most cars. I push the clutch or knock it into neutral out of habit so it has never been a problem. The switch may very well be non existent.