Bad RMS Problem, need help.

Alright, we just finished buttoning up the everything on my buddies RMS project. Started her up and ran her for a few minutes then saw a nice big puddle of oil underneath. Started her up again and watched this time. Oil is just pouring out in a stream from the RMS. We had problems lining the gasket up in the rear. It kept poking out in the curved sump area around the rear bearing cap. So we poked it back in with a bent screw driver then tightened it. I'm assuming this is the issue. Is the rear portion of the gasket supposed to be visible at all? Also any tips on lining the gasket up?

Take the pan/gasket back off, clean it real good, spray it down with brake cleaner so the gasket surfaces on the pan are totally free of any oil or dirt. Then run a nice bead a RTV around the whole thing and let it tack up real good then put the gasket back on a let it dry to it some so it stays in place. You may need to weigh the gasket down to make it stay then put it back up once the gasket seems like it won't fall off anymore. I would still be really carefully though. You are using the Felpro one-piece rubber gasket right? It's far superior to the old 3 piece design.

Alright, just got the new gasket since we didn't want to bother cleaning the old one. Talked to the guy at the counter and he told us to only use RTV in the corners and just a little at that. He said that the RTV would just get pressed out once tightened. Still, no answer on how to hold the gasket in place on the center portion in the rear sump below the rear bearing. Think were gonna try a 1/4 bead of RTV and let it sit for a good while and tack. Then put some weight on the gasket right there.

Like the guy said if it gets pushed out then it doesn't really matter anyway as long as the gasket stays where it's supposed to right? When I did mine I went around the whole pan with RTV and let it sit until the gasket won't move anymore (took a few hours) but the RTV was still not completely dried yet. I will have to say mine is dry as a bone now so you can't ask for much more than that. It's nice for a change to actually have a clean, dry motor, as of right now I have zero leaks anywhere on the whole jeep. :eeks1:

A word of caution, be careful not to overtighten the oil pan bolts they will strip out very easily if you do, the new style rubber gasket is thicker than the old fiber one so you won't have as much tread contact as before so only tighten them a little bit past hand tight, maybe 10 or 15 LBS. I had a couple strip out on me but I had some longer bolts on hand which grabbed really well. The original bolts are only 1/2 long so some 3/4 ones are a better bet. I would only use grade 8 bolts too if I was you, no reason to cheap out on something so important. Good luck.

When we got the pan down the problem was easy to see, one side of the gasket broke at the upper corner around the rear bearing. The gasket was also not even on the rim of the oil pan, it was completely inside around the curved area. Cleaned up the pan and put the new gasket on, and cleaned out all of the holes with the screwdriver and towel on the other side trick. Got a really nice thick bead of RTV around the whole thing and a little extra around the rear bearing. Think the issue was not letting it cure before. Last time I think we only let it set for 15 minutes or so. I'll go back in 3hrs and check it, if it looks good we'll put it in.

robsjeepxj said:

I will have to say mine is dry as a bone now so you can't ask for much more than that. It's nice for a change to actually have a clean, dry motor, as of right now I have zero leaks anywhere on the whole jeep. :eeks1:

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... are you... sure it's actually a Jeep? :roflmao:

Maybe the only one I know of over 100,000 miles that doesn't leak "anymore" yet.