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14-bolt rear end or Sterling 10.5" rear?

andrewmacc

NAXJA Forum User
I'm picking up some axles and I've got a question that comes down to "what's the best deal?"
(edit: the victim of this is going to be my '92 Jeep XJ with a measly D30/35 setup)

Called around, prices aren't so good in my area, it's not hugely populated so finding good axles and parts can be hard sometimes. For example, the best junkyard is like an hour and a half away.

So here's the deal:

I can pick up a full-float 14-bolt new brakes and seals 3.73 gears for $300 CDN (trust me that's nearly as good as I can get on prices).

I can also pick up a 3.73 Dana 60 front for $350. However, the guy is willing to sell me the companion rear axle: the Sterling 10.5" - both axles are out of his F-350. Here's the kicker: for another $50 to total it up to $400 he'll throw in the 10.5".


What do I do? Pick up the individual axles (14b and D60) or get the set (10.5" and D60)?


Reason I'm going so heavy duty axle instead of tossing a Dana 44 in there is because I'm trying to set myself up for the future (39.5") instead of using the Dana 44 as a stepping stone - plus regular Dana 44's are like $400 alone.
 
id go 14 bolt alot stronger then the 10.5, better aftermarket, both are complet rock anchors though
 
id go 14 bolt alot stronger then the 10.5, better aftermarket, both are complet rock anchors though
Yeah they're pretty freakin' heavy. I'm definitely shaving the 14 bolt though, if I go that route, it'll get me roughly the same clearance as a D60.

I hear the 10.5" has the same rough strength as a D70, though - for an extra $50 that sounds like a steal? Paying $400 for front and back instead of $650 for front and a bit stronger rear?
 
i ditched the 10.5 i got with my 60 due to the massive size and wieght, also be prepared to spend some dough getting the axle under a xj it aint cheap
 
Yeah, I can only hope I'm prepared for it, haha.

Decisions decisions, though. Now I found a Dana 60 front Dana 70 rear with 4.10s for $700.
good deal with the gears, just wels up the diffs and call it good, is the frt a ford or chevy 60?
 
good deal with the gears, just wels up the diffs and call it good, is the frt a ford or chevy 60?
Crap, I never asked. I'm not sure what difference is though - I think the Ford is preferable, but how bad is it if it's from a Chevy?


edit: he also mentioned something about Warn hubs but it was kind of a mumble and I didn't get him to clarify. Warn something or other.
 
Crap, I never asked. I'm not sure what difference is though - I think the Ford is preferable, but how bad is it if it's from a Chevy?
chevy is pass drop frt but if you swap in a d300 tcase its all good, do alot of searching on here and pirate
 
Yeah I've been reading about the D300 "doubler" (right?). I can't remember though: if it's driver drop I'd have to flip the doubler, but if it's pass drop then the doubler will be fine..? That's what I get for latenight reading, I didn't retain much.
 
Yeah I've been reading about the D300 "doubler" (right?). I can't remember though: if it's driver drop I'd have to flip the doubler, but if it's pass drop then the doubler will be fine..? That's what I get for latenight reading, I didn't retain much.
do some searchin theres a few threads on here bout 300 doublers
 
Will do, thanks tons for fielding my questions.
Just called him back, it's out of a Chev, pass-side drop, so it sounds like a doubler might just be the way to go. Picking the axles up tomorrow morning, unfortunately they're going to have to wait to go under the XJ, but soon enough.

:D
 
Yeah they're pretty freakin' heavy. I'm definitely shaving the 14 bolt though, if I go that route, it'll get me roughly the same clearance as a D60.
^^
And if you were to shave a D60, you'll have roughly the same amount of clearance as a D44.

The 10.5 is rock solid. Check it: its a 10.25, but you'll get the idea. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=750721

For clearance: Polished 35 Spline D60
For aftermarket support: 14 bolt

The 10.25/10.5 lacks the aftermarket support of the 14 bolt. Spools, lockers and gears are very limited.
 
Haha, touche.

I'm just flopping back and forth mentally right now, I can't figure which is a better deal. I may just get the 14-bolt/D60 with the extra $50 10.5" Sterling for the same price as I'd be getting the D60/D70 - because I'd have to buy the D300 just to run the pass-side drop.
It's a shame I won't be getting the 4.10 gears that way, but what can I do, right?
 
14-bolt front and rear would be nice, but for the price, I ended up getting that D60/D70 4.10 set. I got it complete from hub to hub, D60 has locking Warn hubs (it is pass-side drop though), all for $300.

Not too shabby, I think. Now the choice is:
make it easier on myself and pay something like $300 for a D300 or do it the hard way to keep my NP231 and swap the short side tubing for the long side - lots of drilling, pressing, welding, measuring and checking angles. Hmm.
 
if i could go back in time id have gone with a chevy 60 front for the $$$ i could have saved. odd he has a 10.5 (ford axle) with a chevy front 60....

anyways. use the 14 bolt. ballistic makes a shave kit, 5.13 gears can be found in junkyards and the detroits are the cheapest. theres aftermarket everything for this axle. you can get your gear choice. youll pay for it in the end with a sterling axle.

also depending on the year of the sterling axle it could have that shiddy metric bolt pattern.....



14 bolts are not rock anchors if you shave and build correctly they are 10x better than a 60......unless you like your ring gear in pieces.
 
Jesus, these things are heavy. I've only got one axle out of the bed of the truck, the other one has resisted my attempts to get it out. Pretty sure my back hates me. A lot.

Coming from a set of little axles (d30/d35), these are starting to feel like major overkill. We'll see. I've got a friend with a TJ (just 4" and 33"s) and the first thing he said is "they're sure going to look pretty in your backyard when you realize they're too heavy and want to sell them."

Convince me otherwise -facepalm-
 
You have a lot of work ahead of you. No way I'd do the work of switching to pass side drop just to save a few hundred bucks on some junkyard axles. The D70 rear is a nice axle, but like any of them you'll want to shave the crap out of it.

Spending your 300 bucks and picking up those heavy axles is just the tip of the iceberg for what time and $$ you'll have into this by the time you get done. Have fun. :)
 
Yup, two friends of mine just did full rebuilds on a YJ and TJ. Both went D60/14b and completely rebuilt the axles, which cost a small fortune.
 
if i could go back in time id have gone with a chevy 60 front for the $$$ i could have saved. odd he has a 10.5 (ford axle) with a chevy front 60....

anyways. use the 14 bolt. ballistic makes a shave kit, 5.13 gears can be found in junkyards and the detroits are the cheapest. theres aftermarket everything for this axle. you can get your gear choice. youll pay for it in the end with a sterling axle.

also depending on the year of the sterling axle it could have that shiddy metric bolt pattern.....
have no idea whats up with the west coast but out east 80's ford 60's go for 3-500 and most are in great shape so i dont forsee savin much if any goin with a chevy 60

and for the balistic shave kit, why would one want to pay 250 for a diff cover and a steel plate, then have to wait a month for balisatic to ship it out?
The D70 rear is a nice axle, but like any of them you'll want to shave the crap out of it.

Spending your 300 bucks and picking up those heavy axles is just the tip of the iceberg for what time and $$ you'll have into this by the time you get done. Have fun. :)

i agree with the money thing, knuckles, 35 spline stubs and flanges the money adds up quick

and for those lookin into 70's, theres several diff ones, the early ones had 23 spline shafts and have offset gears n carrier that they no longer make parts for
 
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