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Swaybar bolt removal problem!

B

Brad Klammer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Surrey, BC
I'm installing jks disco's so I was removing the stock stablizer bars. the top came out perfect but the bottom hex bolt is impossible to back out??? I have stripped the bolt now so I'm wondering what the f to do... has anyone else run into this before? I need to get her back on the road for tomorrow to get to work :banghead:
 
The bolts don't turn out, they press out. There are splines on the OD of the bolt.

This is assuming of course that it's a post Renix era.. just guessing since you didn't see fit to tell us that BASIC INFORMATION THAT SHOULD BE IN EVERY INFO REQUEST POST.

There, I feel better.
 
So I cut the torx bolt head off and am trying to smash the bolt out from the side I cut the head of the bolt off and there is just no way this bitch is moving.... Any thoughts?
 
the air chissel makes it come out like it's stuck in warm butter

if you already got a compressor, just spring the $30 for the air hammer

I couldn't believe how well that worked, and you'll get to air hammer all kinds of stuff too.

The neighboors like it most if you do it at about 3AM.
 
I had the same problem; you need to drill it out with a 1/2in bit. Make sure that the bit is new and go slow and steady with constant pressure, apply light weight oil as you cut so that the bit tip does not burn up. If you are using a light duty drill try starting with a 3/16in bit and step up the 1/2in. be careful when the bit is exiting the material, as it will want to bind up, just go slow.
I installed a DPG OEM kit last month, the install went great until I got to the JKS quick disconnect Pain in the A**
 
urbanXJ said:
the air chissel makes it come out like it's stuck in warm butter

if you already got a compressor, just spring the $30 for the air hammer

I couldn't believe how well that worked, and you'll get to air hammer all kinds of stuff too.

The neighboors like it most if you do it at about 3AM.
Click to expand...

Bahahahahahahahaha. Well, the neighbors weren't too thrilled with me using my grinder at 10:30... I don't have a compressor, but will be rectifying that shortly. I have heard a pitman arm tool will work but I dont see how that would be any stronger than my c-clamp that wouldn't even budge the mother.

Anyone tried drilling it out? That's my next step. The weird part is that there is virtually 0 rust on this rig and we dont use salt in Southern BC, we use sand. If this is any indication of how my lift is going to go in this weekend it's going to be a long long weekend :(
 
morganmc said:
I had the same problem; you need to drill it out with a 1/2in bit. Make sure that the bit is new and go slow and steady with constant pressure, apply light weight oil as you cut so that the bit tip does not burn up. If you are using a light duty drill try starting with a 3/16in bit and step up the 1/2in. be careful when the bit is exiting the material, as it will want to bind up, just go slow.
I installed a DPG OEM kit last month, the install went great until I got to the JKS quick disconnect Pain in the A**
Click to expand...

Haha, I was writing as you replied. I also am installing a DPG OME ultimate kit this weekend I just thought I'd make the weekend easier by installing the disco's early... not so muuuuuuch.
 
"Ditto" Like Idiot Wind said: I used a pitman arm puller from Harbor Freight. I had one on hand and it worked. I put the nut back on a few threads and used it to keep the puller "centered".
 
I ground the head off of the bolt, stacked some washers on the threaded side, and then tightened the nut against those. Pulled the bolt right out...no problem whatsoever! This was after like a half hour of trying a 2 jaw puller, bfh, and a some cursing. Just be careful not to grind into the sway bar brackets and you'll be good to go.

That pitman arm pulley looks like it would work great too.
 
I heated mine up with a mapp gas torch and three swings later with a BFH and they popped right out.
 
I've always wondered why they put a Torx head into that stupid stud... it's like a trap! I did have them unscrew cleanly once, on my '91 MJ, the whole front suspension was so rusted that the splines were completely gone. Annoyed the crap out of me because I had to find my torx bit set and hold onto two wrenches instead of just turning the nut :passgas:
 
Looky, visual aids...

Note the correct application of $5 puller and the splines at the head of the torx bolt. Beware, I have seen at least one XJ with bolted in swaybar bolts, but this is your best method since you've already determined it is pressed in.

ry%3D400


The passenger side is a tad more difficult to remove thanks to the close proximity to the steering damper, but it can still be done easily.

ry%3D400
 
Heating up the bracket helps a lot. But rocknxj has it right.

I got mine out with a couple Harbor Freight C-Clamps and a torch
 
Brad Klammer said:
** Update ** Got that SOB out! bought the pitman arm tool for $15 (can never have enough tools) and it came out like butta.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it!

I installed my first lift before I knew much about NAXJA and I removed the bolts the hard way. Yeah, I tried to unscrew them, then decided to cut them, hack them, heat them, and pound them before I broke down and rented a puller.

The current Jeep was lifted after 3 years of NAXJA knowledge. I like to pass along what I have learned, hoping it will save somebody time and money.
 
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