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What locker to use???

D

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NAXJA Forum User
Location
Utah
I've got a 98 xj sport with a 8.25 rear I'm on a buget. and i'm thinking of running, Aussie, Powertrax, or Lockright. Who has run these? Any problems? Pros and cons. A Nickle for your thoughts. All so this is my every day driver.
 
Last edited:
The general consensus will be Aussie Locker. That is what a lot of guys have ran for thousands of miles and been very happy with.
 
they're all in the same class of insertable, non-selectable, and all are fairly reliable and effective.

the aussie's have been shown by a few friends of mine to be a bit quieter and smoother overall, but still every so often, click, pop and bang while engaging/disengaging around a turn.

I, personally, need my Cherokee to be un-compromised in any weather by offroad modifications, so that I can hand the keys to my wife, in-laws, etc, without any
hassle. I'm therefore NOT planning on anything but open, LSD, or selectable (ARB,OX,etc).

Its also one of the self-imposed rules of my "super-stock" build. It has to be better than factory both on and off road, and a non-selectable locker simply doesn't drive as well as an open diff, though thats just me sticking to MY plan for MY rig.

Its likely a very good choice for you! :) I'd definitely recommend the Aussie.
 
Also look into the Spartan locker. It is similar to the Aussie but it may be a tad cheaper. I think my front Spartan locker cost me $220 and pulls like a beast.
 
The spartan is cheaper, and comes with a new cross shaft. But why is the warranty limited to 32" tires and one year? This made the Aussie worth it to me, to spend the $30 more, and have a 2yr warranty period. However, I am waiting for the UPS man at the moment for mine to arrive. So I guess that my opinion pretty useless. :gee:
 
I've had my Aussies installed front and rear now for only about 200 miles but I have no complaints at all. DO expect it to click or ratchet through corners. It is just a matter of adjusting driving habits for me, you have to learn how to slow down a ways before a turn, slightly be on the gas entering the turn, then coast through the last 3/4 or so and not accelerate until you are pointed straight again.

I drive Grimes Canyon to work everyday and took my jeep once, it did surprisingly well for being locked full time.

grimes_23.jpg


I do not drive my Jeep everyday, so my main concern was cost, and for about half the price of one ARB or OX, I got both Aussies. I do not regret it, I am very happy with them.
 
Most are similar,but the "No-Slip" is definately quieter than the rest!
 
gradysjeep said:
Aussie all the way.
Click to expand...

X2, never had a problem, VERY VERY easy to install, just be sure you get correct "gap" measurements and set them correct...still VERY easy. I run Aussie in both D30 and 8.25. 8.25 was eaiser than the D30...also did it last so i learned a bit from the D30. Use plenty of grease to hold everything together till it's in. I used plain old heavy grease i had....nothing special.
 
Aussie! I have had mine in for a while now and love it. Under a hour to install. Having an extra set of hands and a small screw driver for the springs is all you need.
 
I've had a Powertrax NoSlip in my c8.25 and d30 for 6 years now with no problems at all.
Work great, run very quite, and have more off road hours on them than no road.
Not my DD!

SanDiegoOverland said:
they're all in the same class of insertable, non-selectable, and all are fairly reliable and effective.

the aussie's have been shown by a few friends of mine to be a bit quieter and smoother overall, but still every so often, click, pop and bang while engaging/disengaging around a turn.

I, personally, need my Cherokee to be un-compromised in any weather by offroad modifications, so that I can hand the keys to my wife, in-laws, etc, without any
hassle. I'm therefore NOT planning on anything but open, LSD, or selectable (ARB,OX,etc).

Its also one of the self-imposed rules of my "super-stock" build. It has to be better than factory both on and off road, and a non-selectable locker simply doesn't drive as well as an open diff, though thats just me sticking to MY plan for MY rig.

Its likely a very good choice for you! :) I'd definitely recommend the Aussie.
Click to expand...


SanDiegoOverland has very good points.
I would like to add a couple of things.

1. sometimes when making directional shift there is slight delay before engagement. This is because noslip has disengaged both axles and the center section needs to turn to engage one or both axles.

2.When decelerating down hill, in a corner you will get an oversteer when the noslip desengeges faster moving axle.
 
I have a Powertrax No-slip in my 8.25 and it works great. Its completely silent while my front Aussie is very noisy. My Powertrax is even missing a tooth and I still haven't been able to completely break it :laugh:
 
If you want new and cheap but good quality, Aussie is the way.

If you are me and willing to work for it I would scout for ARB's. I got a dana 30 front with ARB, housing, gears and knuckles for 300 bucks. Yesterday I picked up a C8.25 with 4.56 gears installed, ARB, switches, high flow arb pump, relays, solenoids, and wiring harness and some sort of non factory axles which I have to take out to look. All for 650 bucks. Basically I need a ring and pinion and install kit for the front and another switch and some air line and I'm done. So really if you do the math just save up a few more bucks to get a selectable one. I'll be in it just over 1K for arb's front and rear and new gears, and maybe chromoly or alloy axles in the rear.
 
FiveNdime said:
If you want new and cheap but good quality, Aussie is the way.

If you are me and willing to work for it I would scout for ARB's. I got a dana 30 front with ARB, housing, gears and knuckles for 300 bucks. Yesterday I picked up a C8.25 with 4.56 gears installed, ARB, switches, high flow arb pump, relays, solenoids, and wiring harness and some sort of non factory axles which I have to take out to look. All for 650 bucks. Basically I need a ring and pinion and install kit for the front and another switch and some air line and I'm done. So really if you do the math just save up a few more bucks to get a selectable one. I'll be in it just over 1K for arb's front and rear and new gears, and maybe chromoly or alloy axles in the rear.
Click to expand...


Good finds but but could look a long time to find those deals or you could spend 300 bucks and be locked up in a week with shipping with a lunchbox.
 
Yeah, I got lucky and found them in a week, but there is allot for sale these days with the economy crapping out.
 
I've had a PowerTrax No Slip for around 5 years in my 8.25 (4 cyl., 2 wd, manual trans), daily driver, 90+% on road. Clicks less than once a week, chirps tires at will in tight corners and reversing. Drives smooth and completely quiet when wanted. I wouldn't be without it, on road or off.

Avatar photo is us in Death Valley where we traveled over 100 miles on 4x4 roads without and problems. We've driven snow and ice in Yosemite with tire chains, Joshua Tree "geology tour", and many more.
It's nice to know that even with one wheel off the ground, traction is always there.

Just my opinion here, Aussie is fine for a non-D.D. especially is you have an auto trans. For me, I'll spend the extra money for the comfort of the PowerTrax. Long after the extra money is forgotten the advantages are still there.
 
ive ran my aussie for probably 5k miles, and wouldnt recommend it on a DD.
my jeep is caged, and has no interior whatsoever, so im not afraid of a LITTLE discomfort, however, that aussie is loud as XXXX, even with a aftermarket thick diff cover, and thicker gear oil. i feel like people misrepresent how much they quiet down, mine hasnt gotten any quieter, and i doubt it will.

can be embarassing, and definately is annoying.q
 
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