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1310 or 1330 ujoints on a cv driveshaft?
- Thread starter JeeperYJ
- Start date
No problem.
From the pictures you posted above I don't see why you can't grab a vernier or ruler and measure it?
See the picture without it installed. On the right, not sure of the name (holds the two ujoints), but it shields the ujoint from a good measrement. See the ujoint sets in a little, then the clip? Am I looking at it wrong? I guess if the rear one (axle side) sits the same, I can assume it's the same as the front then?
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Measure the outside of the flange adapter, then measure how far the end of the cap is from the outside of the adapter on each side and subtract
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
I would venture to say the 1330 u-joint is on the axle side since thats how you ordered it, so that you didnt have to deal with a conversion joint, or 1310 companion flange on the 8.8 correct?
Deadman 94 xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
FWIW, mine has 1350 at the T-case and 1310 at the axle. I ordered from Carolina driveline. He said it had something to do with balancing during rotation and it being "high angle" :dunno:
Correct. The 1330 is on the axle (ford 8.8) side he said. The 1310 is on the TC side.
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
So did you install the companion flange or did it come with the shaft? What did the joints end up measuring out to?
Rockslut
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lincoln, CA
Factory 8.8 is 1330 on the axle end. A 1330 CV would be less desirable because they wont take as much angle as 1310.
robsjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Jersey
1330 is stock for the 8.8 ford. Not sure why that matters since you need an adapter anyway for the 8.8 flange. Maybe they figure the 1330 is stronger so they went with that. My tom woods shaft has all 1310's and the adapter flange.
I requested it. The 1310 is 1/2 ton and 1330 is 3/4 ton. Kind of why I wanted to check to see if it was done right 
I looked at Tom Woods. But, I got the Spicer ujoints, and the 2.5 DOM tube and TW didn't offer that and was higher priced. Lower price did help with the budget
I looked at Tom Woods. But, I got the Spicer ujoints, and the 2.5 DOM tube and TW didn't offer that and was higher priced. Lower price did help with the budget robsjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Jersey
Not sure about the tube size but I know it's thicker than stock and they've always used spicer joints and yokes on all they're shafts.
I emailed someone there that said different. Hummm. Good to know. The tube size was 1.75 with them. TW shipped was $325 I think the guy said. ROR was 2.5" and $239
robsjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Jersey
Cheaper isn't always better but that looks like a good shafts, much shorter than the one on my XJ. I get good discounts from my local clubs in house vendors too. I'm sure you could have found it cheaper than that elsewhere.
It's on my YJ.
Metal is metal. Besides the size and ujoints they are probably the same.robsjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Jersey
I think it would be impossible to bend or twist even 1.75 DOM so I'm cool with what I've got. But if I ever do a new shaft on my TJ I might get one of the those for $240. Does yours have the long splines on the slip part, that makes a huge difference in overall strength and longevity? http://www.tomwoodscustomdriveshafts.com/aboutus.html Towards the bottom of the page is a picture of the one I have, long spline with the rubber boot, the splines are about a foot long and are also plastic coated so it is self lubing and rust proof.
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