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And the best long arm system is....

X

X-defector

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Parker CO
The most expensive - go figure. From what I know of, those two are Rock Krawler and BDS. Why? Both are true 4-link, full long arm systems that allow full flex and proper caster throughout the travel. The also dramatically reduce unloading on steep climbs.

All others are either radius arms setups, or have lower long arms only with stock short upper arms (don't even get me started on what a crappy high-school engineering exercise this is). These all can bind under high articulation, do not maintain proper caster throughout travel , and create unloading on steep climbs.

Of the radius arm type systems, the best overall looks to be something like Iron Rock Offroad, because only one upper mount is used on the axle to address some of the binding potential.

Of course, full long-arms systems seem to cost about twice what the radius arm setups cost, so it's not an option for everybody....but if you need the best you know what to look for. What's wrong with putting on a front suspension system that costs more than the Jeep?? :cheers:
 
Not sure where you are going with this since you haven't run any of these,alot of mis-imformation!
BTW,IRO is very low on my list of good designs,they are just waiting for a "Lawsuit".
 
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RCP Phx said:
Not sure where you are going with this since you haven't run any of these,alot of mis-imformation!
BTW,IRO is very low on my list of good designs,they are just waiting for a "Lawsuit".
Click to expand...

Fairness doctrine says you gotta share details! :D
 
don't forget full traction's long arm set up. i've seen it in action, and i spoke with the FT guys at the TDS shindig. they really know their sh$t, money being no object, it's what i will run one day.
 
Twisted_Dakota said:
Explain please...

I run it with no issues at all...
Click to expand...


Yes please do explain. Have you ever set one up? Ever wheeled one? I run mine without any problems and beat the crap out of it then driven 2 hours home. So please tell me you were driving down the road and had the IRO LA setup fail on you, if you did I will go remove mine first thing tomorrow.

To the original poster, asking a question like this will get you no where. Everyone loves their LA's and will bash all others without much experience on them.
 
some people just believe that if something is half the price of the competitor. it MUST fail, and since its a suspension system, when it DOES fail it will be dangerous.

and then there are those that pull they're head out of they're ass and realize these systems have worked well for years.. the XJ is not even IRO's biggest market, the more expensive ZJ/WJ market is where IRO really has raving reviews!
 
The only long arm I have experience with is RK's 3 link. I love it. It's tough, offers great flex, and was reasonably priced. It does hang below the frame rails, but it hasn't hung me up at all.
 
That's funny, my radius arm suspension is tough, offers great flex, was reasonably priced, and doesn't hang below the frame rails.

A true four link bnds under flex.

This whole thread reminds me that it's 7:26 somewhere.
 
X-defector said:
The most expensive - go figure. From what I know of, those two are Rock Krawler and BDS. Why? Both are true 4-link, full long arm systems that allow full flex and proper caster throughout the travel. The also dramatically reduce unloading on steep climbs.

All others are either radius arms setups, or have lower long arms only with stock short upper arms (don't even get me started on what a crappy high-school engineering exercise this is). These all can bind under high articulation, do not maintain proper caster throughout travel , and create unloading on steep climbs.

Of the radius arm type systems, the best overall looks to be something like Iron Rock Offroad, because only one upper mount is used on the axle to address some of the binding potential.

Of course, full long-arms systems seem to cost about twice what the radius arm setups cost, so it's not an option for everybody....but if you need the best you know what to look for. What's wrong with putting on a front suspension system that costs more than the Jeep?? :cheers:
Click to expand...

Doing homework is good, but you might actually be reading too much, or at least worried about too much of it. :paperwork

Every kit has its pro's and con's. Decide what is important for you and go with it.

For example, I have T&T's radius long-arms (aka: the y-link kit). I agree that there is caster change as the suspension cycles, but what do I care when I am flexed out and moving at under 2 mph? To me the clearance that T&T's kit provides it the main advantage to running their kit. I also know there is some binding with radius arms but it still flexes well and I can live with it. I checked the bushings after having the kit about a year and they were still fine. I think when people hear about the binding issue they are afraid that it won't flex well and they will go through bushings much too fast. That hasn't been my experience so far. And there is similar binding (albeit to a lesser degree) that goes on with the four-link front suspension kits also, but you never hear anyone talk about that.

Just my opinion...
 
joe_peters said:
Fairness doctrine says you gotta share details! :D
Click to expand...

Its there adjuster thats an extreme weak link,there no reason they couldn't do it right!This is from my son's traction bar,but you should get the idea!
41400002.JPG
 
So i guess that answer the question of: have you ever run the IRO kit or installed one...

I beat the ever living shit out of my IRO kit and still drive it as my daily driver. You have no room to speak on their kit if you have never run it.
 
Twisted_Dakota said:
So i guess that answer the question of: have you ever run the IRO kit or installed one...

I beat the ever living shit out of my IRO kit and still drive it as my daily driver. You have no room to speak on their kit if you have never run it.
Click to expand...

Nope,done most of the rest of the kits and my own!Been building racing chassi(s)/suspensions for almost 40yrs now.Common sense would tell you that the increased leverage on the thing is just a stupid idea(and theres no logic in doing it that way)!
As far as the other issues,yes if your worried about it you cant go wrond with Full-traction or BDS.Personally with both my rigs running radius arms(mine),for the last 10yrs I dont even notiice the very "minute" castors changes on the road(and I tow my trailer when I wheel).AS far as "un-loading" goes,ask my trailmates,last trip out I was the only one NOT to be on a winch.Unloading has more to do with angles/arm length's than just being a "radius" arm
 
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EricsXJ said:
For example, I have T&T's radius long-arms (aka: the y-link kit). I agree that there is caster change as the suspension cycles, but what do I care when I am flexed out and moving at under 2 mph?

Just my opinion...
Click to expand...

You don't care - and that's why radius arm setups work successfully in this scenario. I doubt anyone would ever get to this point, but if you've got a big lift on radius arms and come close to bottoming out at highway speeds, your caster changes enough that you get a mushy, floaty steering response that's pretty weird. That's why pre-runners and other high-speed, high travel rigs don't use them. Not usually a worry for our types, though.
 
RCP Phx said:
AS far as "un-loading" goes,ask my trailmates,last trip out I was the only one NOT to be on a winch.Unloading has more to do with angles/arm length's than just being a "radius" arm
Click to expand...

Tis true, it's related to arm length and chassis-side mounting points more than anything. 4-links do help quell unloading a bit further in addition.

Still looking for the beer emoticon.
 
Twisted_Dakota said:
I beat the ever living shit out of my IRO kit and still drive it as my daily driver.
Click to expand...

10inchlifttj.jpg


Funky adjuster aside, your entire axle is being held in place by a single 10mm bolt. do not want.

On paper-

Tri 4 Link>4 link/3 link/Mid Arms>Radius Arms>Factory 4 link w/ Panhard> Wristed Radius

Thats IMHO.

But it depends on what you're doing and who you talk to. I'm 100% satisfied with short arms on 3.5" of lift. TNT's kit is awesome and the people who run it love it, a triangulated 4 link is uber sweet but basically impossible in the front of a XJ, and after that comes 4/3 links w/ panhard rod (trackbar).

Yes, the Y-link style radius arms "unload" and alter caster. Have I seen it happen? Oh yes. Is it OMFGWTFBBQ ? no. I've seen radius arms deny a hillclimb to someone ONCE and it was more than a 100% grade and was denying ATVs.

Mt dream kit is the FT kit though.... been drooling over that for years.
 
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