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Sway bar help.. Broken nut

rehberg79

rehberg79

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Byron, Il
I was changing the bushings on my front sway bar and the front captive nut driverside broke free. Is there an easy fix for this? The nut sits behind the steering box brace in the rails. I really don't want to cut a hole in the rail, and really don't want to remove my JCR tie in's. Any ideas other then the ons list would be great.

Mat
 
I think you are boned, dude.
If it makes you feel any better, I found that after the first time I drilled a hole in the unibody it just keeps getting easier with every cut, hole or "massage".
 
If you remove the bumper, you can reach that nut, or put a new nut on there. I've had to do this twice on my 90. Second time I just replaced all the nuts. You'll need a flashlight and long box end wrench or a socket on the end of a long breaker bar. Pack the socket (box end)with some grease to hold the nut while you put the bolt in from the bottom. Just in case you're a welder, or have access to one you can "spot" weld the new nuts in there once they're in place.

Sounds involved but it sure beats cutting the "frame".

P.S. When you find the vacuum reservoir behind the bumper, that's a vacuum reservoir. No need to post up "what's this black ball" thread.
 
ParadiseXJ said:
P.S. When you find the vacuum reservoir behind the bumper, that's a vacuum reservoir. No need to post up "what's this black ball" thread.
Click to expand...

:) preemptive strike! I'll add- there's a ambient air temperature sensor that mounts behind the grill/bumper too, so if you see a two wire plug that terminates roughly in the center, don't worry about that either:)
 
Cant reach in from the end on the drivers side, that would work fine on the pass. side. There is a brace inside the "frame" that reinforces the the steering box bolts. I think im going to cut the bolt and try to fish a new bolt down through a hole.....

Also the little balck ball has been relocated to the engine bay and the was done with out a "Little Black Ball" thread.
I didnt worry about that "Two Prong Plug" when I installed my JCR, so I don' think Im going to pay it any mind now. :dunno:

Thanks, Mat
 
Last edited:
X2, do not remove the front sway bar. Removing the rear sway bar is unlikely to change the vehicle's handling significantly but that is not relevant to this thread.

EDIT: As for how to fix this - I'd probably bore a hole big enough for a new nut to sit in into the spot where the old nut was, then grab a piece of 1/8" stock, drill two properly spaced holes in it, tack another nut over one hole, put it up against the frame and weld the plate to the bottom of the rail. Don't forget a shot of rustoleum.
 
Last edited:
veedubshafer said:
So did you throw it in the trash yet? Best place for those things. Especially on lifted rigs.
Click to expand...

is that like a bizzarro world comment? so whatever you say is the exact opposite of what it true?

a lifted rig being driven on the road is sees MORE benefit from having a sway bar.
do you understand the concept of the sway bar? (hint hint... anti-sway, anti-rolling over easily)
 
Gotta say, the sway bar actually does make quite a bit of difference. However, with my RE coils and 360/80 valved 7100s hold it upright pretty well. I have no sway bars and it has very little body roll and is pretty stable in fast transitions.
 
90 waggy said:
unhook the sway bar and try to swerve to avoid something....
Click to expand...
I have no sway bar and have swerved to avoid something. But like I said, I have really stiff shocks holding it upright and stiffer than stock springs as well.
 
veedubshafer said:
It's a $500 cherokee......just hit it!
Click to expand...

Have you ever wrecked a Jeep? Not on my list of things to do again. It was a huge PITA and it HURT! Go ahead and run your jeep in to something and realize how retarded you sound!
 
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