brake lines... oh brake lines. I can do them in my sleep now, after buying and resurrecting two rot-box jeeps.
I use autozone brake line WITHOUT the "armor" wire wrapping (read: saltwater-collecting wire wrapping.) You can bend it with your hands if you're reasonably strong and it doesn't kink very easily.
Tools required - hands, 1/4" vinyl tubing for bleeding brakes, the smallest tubing cutter you can find at home depot (it's in the plumbing aisle, like $15), a GOOD double flaring kit (NOT the harbor freight one) that will do 3/16" tubing. A good deburring tool can help too, you want to remove the burrs from the inside of the line.
I buy the preflared sections of brake line in the length up from what I actually need, that way I only have to flare one end.
Pull the old line out without bending it if possible. This is easy on the driver side one, I used a 20" preflared line and didn't even have to reflare it, it was just the right length. Bend the new line (making sure the flare nuts are where they need to be... they won't go past bends*) using the old line as a guide. Throw the new line in, bleed brakes, call it a day.
I didn't want to screw around with the wiring harness and evap lines where they cover up the passenger side front line along the firewall so I cut and reflared it behind the evap canister on my 96 and then used an inverted flare joiner to connect a new segment in from there down to the wheel well. On the MJ I was confident enough in my ability to cut and flare in a constricted space that I only replaced the piece in the wheel well and spliced up near the shock/coil tower. It's not that bad once you get used to it.
If you are replacing your lines by hand I would get new cunifer line (easier to work than stainless and corrosion proof) or maybe autozone line. If you don't want to do it by hand, get the ones Joe suggested. Have fun with the front passenger side line however, as I said before it is buried under all sorts of junk.
