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Buy a Stroker?

A

AlabamaDan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Heart of Dixie
So my 179k engine is probably on borrowed time and I'll bet I've got less than 100hp to the rear wheels. Today I saw this ad on craigslist:

4.0 SIX CYLINDER JEEP MOTOR .BORED 60 OVER,CAMMED,STROKED,SOUNDS AND RUNS LIKE A V-8. DYNO SHEET WITH MOTOR IF WANTED 300 FT LBS TORQUE AND 285 HP....RUNS GREAT ,REMOVED FROM AN AUTOMATIC CHEROKEE,45K AT THE MOST .GUARANTEED TO RUN THIS MOTOR IS A BEAST ! MOTOR IS OUT OF TRUCK ,CAN INSTALL IF NEEDED IN YOURS. BEST OFFER

What do you think? I'd love to build my own stroker - but honestly that won't happen for years. What questions would one ask in buying a motor like this?
 
Try and get a build list of what all he put into it so you can trouble shoot or maintain it easier.
 
60 over? sounds like you'll have to buy the most expensive radiator you can find to cool that.... and with it being that much over, it probably wont be as dependable if you were just to build your own.
 
Djmack said:
60 over? sounds like you'll have to buy the most expensive radiator you can find to cool that.... and with it being that much over, it probably wont be as dependable if you were just to build your own.
Click to expand...

Sorry, this comment is an uneducated one. .060 over is a very common 4.7L stroker and has no more issues than any other 4.0L motor. Cooling a stroker is the same as cooling a 4.0L, just make sure you have a good aftermarket radiator and all the system parts are working well.


To the OP, I'd buy the motor. Much cheaper to buy a used stroker than to build one yourself. I bought a used stroker with 20k on it and it's still running strong after 6-7 years.
 
Djmack said:
60 over? sounds like you'll have to buy the most expensive radiator you can find to cool that.... and with it being that much over, it probably wont be as dependable if you were just to build your own.
Click to expand...

I am sure that the 30k miles on mine are just a fluke. CSf 3 core radiator, and right now I am not running any fans since my electric crapped out.

I am with Goatman on this one, pretty uneducated statement.
 
To you uneducated guys above: How much can the 4.0 safely be overbored before it gets weak? Does anyone sleeve the block or just start over?
 
ive actually read that sleeves are pretty good stuff. will wear just as good or better that the original block. but with 4.0L's being dime a dozen you could get a different block and have it renewed for the same price.
 
I also vote for a mis-indexed distributor. I have found that with the distributor one tooth off it will idle just fine but won't rev past about 1500 rpm. A couple of teeth could do what you described. I don't know much about stroker builds but if it uses a different crankshaft then it is possible the firing order could differ from the stock order. But anyway, if the engine was running in the other vehicle and you removed the distributor then it is probably off a couple of teeth, that's real easy to do.
 
I vote for a mis-indexed poster.

jeeperjohn said:
I also vote for a mis-indexed distributor. I have found that with the distributor one tooth off it will idle just fine but won't rev past about 1500 rpm. A couple of teeth could do what you described. I don't know much about stroker builds but if it uses a different crankshaft then it is possible the firing order could differ from the stock order. But anyway, if the engine was running in the other vehicle and you removed the distributor then it is probably off a couple of teeth, that's real easy to do.
Click to expand...
 
Guy just responded to my questions and said it needs a valve cover and a RMS. He said it's just the block and head and nothing else. At first I was thinking 1k and drop and go. Now I'm thinking I should pass.
 
Hard to guess how good a deal a motor (or anything, really) is when they tell you it runs great, but is disassembled, incomplete, and needs work. CL ads seem to contain a lot more positive thinking than accurate description, at least in my experience.
 
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