Clockspring Compatibility

Hello all I have a 2001 Classic and while putting in a new steering box I broke my clockspring (careless, I know). I was wondering what other years would work, or maybe even if one from a grand cherokee or wrangler would swap. I have cruise control. Thanks!

1997-2001 will fit. Be sure the donor has Cruise Control. TJ Wrangler might work, but XJ's are much easier to find in the Junkyard.

mrmuelle said:

while putting in a new steering box I broke my clockspring (careless, I know).

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Wait.. what?
How?

EDIT: removed bad info.. there are different clock springs. for cruise control, it just so happens that the two I was dealing with were both cruise control clock springs, but one was in a jeep that did not have cruise control. man the stuff you find out when you google stuff. wow...

But I am still curious how you broke the clock spring while changing the steering box.

Probably didn't put the thing back together in the same spot or let the steering shaft rotate while the box was out, so the ribbon cable tore as soon as someone turned the wheel "too far" in one direction.

What IS a clockspring.

Shoot...

Well I am screwed. I paid no attention what so ever to how many times the steering wheel turned on the donor steering column I put in yesterday.

Guess its time to take the steering wheel off and see about centering that clock spring before its too late.

Thanks.

ParadiseXJ said:

What IS a clockspring.

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It's the little black plastic ring thinger underneath the steering wheel on any modern vehicle with electrical buttons/stuff on the wheel. It is a very thin rolled-up ribbon cable that wraps around the steering shaft to keep the connection working when you spin the wheel. If it gets wound up too tight from turning too far in one direction it'll rip in half, if it gets unwound too much in the other direction it can get snarled up or kinked. They have to be replaced after the airbag goes off on any 97-up XJ because the current surge from igniting the airbag can burn the ribbon cable out.

At least on a 95-96 XJ with no cruise, it doesn't matter how many times you turn them, the horn button contact is a slip ring and sliding spring contact. With cruise, it is absolutely critical that you make sure it's properly centered, and on 97-up it's always critical due to the airbag wiring, cruise control or not.

kastein said:

97-up it's always critical due to the airbag wiring, cruise control or not.

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yep, I'm screwed.

how do I find out if its centered?

There is an article in the FSM about how to center it... not sure what section. What I would do is take the clockspring out of the vehicle, reassemble without it, get the wheels pointed absolutely straight (driving/reversing up and down the driveway if necessary) then adjust the drag link till the wheel is absolutely straight. Center the clockspring as described in the FSM, reinstall.

MudDuck in your case, disassemble the the clock spring before you point the tires straight ahead.


AIRBAG and CLOCKSPRING

WARNING: THE AIRBAG SYSTEM IS A SENSITIVE,
COMPLEX ELECTROMECHANICAL UNIT. BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DIAGNOSE OR SERVICE ANY AIRBAG SYSTEM OR RELATED STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENTS YOU MUST FIRST DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE. THEN WAIT TEN MINUTES FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE FURTHER SYSTEM SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO DO THIS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.

REMOVAL

(1) Turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position before starting the procedure.
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. If the airbag has not been deployed, wait ten minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before further service.
(3) Remove the driver side airbag module as described in this group.
(4) If the vehicle is equipped with the optional vehicle speed control, unplug the speed control switch wire harness connector in the steering wheel.
(5) Remove the nut that secures the steering wheel to the steering column upper shaft.
(6) Remove the steering wheel with a steering wheel puller (Special Tool C-3428B).
(7) Remove the steering column opening cover as described in Group 8E - Instrument Panel Systems.
(8) If the vehicle is so equipped, move the tilt steering column to the fully raised position.

(STEPS 9,10,11 are optional and performed only if required)

(9) Insert the key in the ignition lock cylinder and turn the ignition switch to the On position.
(10) Insert a small screwdriver or pin punch through the access hole in the lower steering column shroud and depress the ignition lock cylinder retaining tumbler (Fig. 13).
(11) While holding the retaining tumbler depressed, pull the ignition lock cylinder and key out of the ignition lock housing.
(12) Remove the three screws that secure the lower steering column shroud to the upper shroud.
(13) If the vehicle is equipped with a standard non-tilt steering column, loosen the two upper steering column mounting nuts. If the vehicle is equipped with the optional tilt steering column, move the tilt steering column to the fully lowered position.
(14) Remove both the upper and lower shrouds from the steering column.
(15) Unplug the two wire harness connectors from the steering column side of the clockspring.
(16) To remove the clockspring, carefully lift the locating fingers of the clockspring assembly from the steering column as necessary. If the clockspring locating fingers are broken, be certain to remove the broken pieces from the upper steering column housing. The clockspring cannot be repaired. It must be replaced if faulty or damaged, or if the airbag has been deployed.

XJ PASSIVE RESTRAINT SYSTEMS 8M - 9
INSTALLATION (Continued)


(17) When installing the clockspring, snap the clockspring onto the steering column. If the clockspring is not properly positioned, see Clockspring Centering in this group before installing the steering wheel.
(18) Plug the two clockspring wire harness connectors into the steering column side of the clockspring. Be certain that the wire harness connector latches are fully engaged.
(19) Reinstall the steering column shrouds and ignition lock cylinder.
(20) Reinstall the steering column opening cover as described in Group 8E - Instrument Panel Systems.
(21) The front wheels should still be in the straight-ahead position. Install the steering wheel being certain to fit the flats on the hub of the steering wheel onto the formations on the inside of the clockspring. Pull the wire harness through the lower hole in the steering wheel hub. Tighten the steering wheel nut to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.). Be certain not to pinch the wiring between the steering wheel and the nut.
(22) Install the airbag module as described in this group.

ADJUSTMENTS
CLOCKSPRING CENTERING
If the rotating tape within the clockspring is not positioned properly in relation to the steering wheel and the front wheels, the clockspring may fail during use. The clockspring must be centered if it is not known to be properly positioned, or if the front wheels were moved from the straight-ahead position with the clockspring removed during any service procedure.
WARNING: THE AIRBAG SYSTEM IS A SENSITIVE, COMPLEX ELECTROMECHANICAL UNIT. BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DIAGNOSE OR SERVICE ANY AIRBAG SYSTEM OR RELATED STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENTS YOU MUST FIRST DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE. THEN WAIT TEN MINUTES FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE FURTHER SYSTEM SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO DO THIS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position before starting the centering procedure.
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. If the airbag has not been deployed, wait ten minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before further service.
(3) Remove the airbag module as described in this group.
(4) If the vehicle is equipped with the optional vehicle speed control, unplug the speed control switch wire harness connector in the steering wheel.
(5) Remove the nut that secures the steering wheel to the steering column upper shaft.
(6) Remove the steering wheel with a steering wheel puller (Special Tool C-3428B).
(7) Rotate the clockspring rotor clockwise to the end of its travel (Fig. 14). Do not apply excessive torque.
(8) From the end of the clockwise travel, rotate the rotor about two and one-half turns counterclockwise, until the rotor flats are horizontal. If the clockspring wire harness is not at the bottom, rotate another one-half turn.
(9) The front wheels should still be in the straightahead position. Install the steering wheel being certain to fit the flats on the hub of the steering wheel onto the formations on the inside of the clockspring. Pull the wire harness from the clockspring through the lower hole in the steering wheel hub. Tighten the steering wheel nut to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.). Be certain not to pinch any of the wiring between the steering wheel and the nut.
(10) Install the airbag module as described in this group.

I will have to give that a shot tonight.

I already drove it the way it is now, so it hasn't popped yet.

but I will just make sure by doing that stuff.

all this because of a stupid broken horn and an airbag light..:gonnablow

kastein said:

Probably didn't put the thing back together in the same spot or let the steering shaft rotate while the box was out, so the ribbon cable tore as soon as someone turned the wheel "too far" in one direction.

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Exactly. Once I had the steering shaft off it got turned too much and tore the ribbon. I originally asked about compatibility because there aren't any XJs in the junkyards around here that have the right part, and most of the online stuff seems to be from a wrangler

All this also helps me a lot! I have a 2001 that im getting up to salvage standards after plowing into the back of an f-150.... anyway what i really need to know is, if it is necessary to replace the airbag module if you've been in an accident and the airbags have deployed. Which is what happened to me

blakebmxr3 said:

... what i really need to know is, if it is necessary to replace the airbag module if you've been in an accident and the airbags have deployed. ....(

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Yes. You need new or good used parts. 2 airbags, a clock spring, and the airbag controller/trigger.

.

Alright then i guess i will get that fourth piece to the puzzle! Thanks guys

blakebmxr3 said:

Alright then i guess i will get that fourth piece to the puzzle! Thanks guys

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(I have them all except the clock spring )


on that note. just incase any one is still wondering what they are, I did some exploring on my old one...My analysis is that if it goes bad, it was ready to go bad anyway, the padding seems to wear away and go from smooth to sticky when it gets moist or old. from what I can tell having it apart.
But its never a bad idea to follow what the book says, they are the experts. I am just curious.

muduck18 said:

So I am not going to worry about the clock spring.. at least not yet.

Still planing to pull as many as I can get my hands on at the yard.

suckers are 'spensive. and I have a feeling I am going to need some spares.

the 'official' Centering meathod... IMHO is BULLSHIP here is why.

the meathod has you turn the spring

Rotate the clockspring rotor clockwise to the end of its travel (Fig. 14). Do not apply excessive torque.
(8) From the end of the clockwise travel, rotate the rotor about two and one-half turns counterclockwise, until the rotor flats are horizontal. If the clockspring wire harness is not at the bottom, rotate another one-half turn.

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the problem with this is that there is soo much more play then they give hint. I would back it off an extra turn if I have to do it. but only time will tell if i am right..

The apparent demise of the clock spring is brought on by moisture!
The lubricant is petrol based like Vaseline but when water is introduced the insulation on the top and bottom become sticky and cause it to tangle or twist.


here are some pictures of the mayhem

two bolts to remove the airbag.

The inside looks like this. On a non cruise control

make shift puller.. Don't eff this up!!!

and presto clock spring..

SIDE NOTE.
the only difference between a cruise control version and a NON cruise control version is the number of wires coming out of this connector.
and in a pinch (if you are brave) you could solder the leads for a cruise version on to the c-spring and it would indeed work. needs to have 5 instead of 3..

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kastein said:

At least on a 95-96 XJ with no cruise, it doesn't matter how many times you turn them, the horn button contact is a slip ring and sliding spring contact. With cruise, it is absolutely critical that you make sure it's properly centered, and on 97-up it's always critical due to the airbag wiring, cruise control or not.

Click to expand...

I have a 2000XJ and I am having cruise control problems. I swapped out my switches a while back because the retaining brackets broke and the switches were loose on the wheel. The cruise worked fine after the swap but the switch brackets broke again, I think because I hold the steering wheel at the switch a lot. I swapped the switches once again and never remove the wheel just unbolted the airbag and switches and now the cruise system won't turn on. At first I thought it was a bad switch because the on button wasn't giving a positive "click" detent and when I replaced the switches alone the first time I didn't have any problems but I put an old switch in that was previously working fine and the system still won't turn on. (i.e. I don't even get the dash light to come on.)

I read up a bit and I checked for vacuum via the AC controls and check the vacuum line at the actuator in the engine bay and removed and the brake switch and checked continuity with a multi-meter and it seems the 3 circuits are functioning either on-off or off-on when the switch is activated and my brake lights work fine as well as my horn. I was baffled thinking all power to the steering wheel came via clockspring but then read the post above "the horn button contact is a slip ring and sliding spring contact" Does this mean my clockspring could be bad and the horn could still work and the airbag light might not come on either?

Are there any voltage tests or checks I can do at the cruise switches or relays I can remove to try to isolate the problem? I would prefer to not spend hundreds on parts if I can isolate to the most likely cause and make that repair first.

I really appreciate any advice or thoughts.

92westshady said:

I have a 2000XJ and I am having cruise control problems. I swapped out my switches a while back because the retaining brackets broke and the switches were loose on the wheel. The cruise worked fine after the swap but the switch brackets broke again, I think because I hold the steering wheel at the switch a lot. I swapped the switches once again and never remove the wheel just unbolted the airbag and switches and now the cruise system won't turn on. At first I thought it was a bad switch because the on button wasn't giving a positive "click" detent and when I replaced the switches alone the first time I didn't have any problems but I put an old switch in that was previously working fine and the system still won't turn on. (i.e. I don't even get the dash light to come on.)

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I'm not sure what this sounds like... could be the clockspring or the switches. I'm not quite fully awake yet though :looney:

92westshady said:

I read up a bit and I checked for vacuum via the AC controls and check the vacuum line at the actuator in the engine bay and removed and the brake switch and checked continuity with a multi-meter and it seems the 3 circuits are functioning either on-off or off-on when the switch is activated and my brake lights work fine as well as my horn. I was baffled thinking all power to the steering wheel came via clockspring but then read the post above "the horn button contact is a slip ring and sliding spring contact" Does this mean my clockspring could be bad and the horn could still work and the airbag light might not come on either?

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The slip ring and sliding spring contact I mentioned above is built into the clockspring housing - the only reason I mentioned this is because it means the horn can indeed keep working even if the clockspring has torn. This is true for at least 95/96, I have not disassembled a 97-up clockspring yet, so YMMV. It confused me a lot when I tried to re-center the clockspring from a non-cruise 95 XJ, the darn thing just kept spinning and spinning with no stop! Ended up disassembling it and discovering the slip ring.

I think this is for compliance with safety regs, a functioning horn is one of the required safety devices on a vehicle so they probably want it to be impossible to break the horn by forgetting to center the clockspring when doing other repairs.

92westshady said:

Are there any voltage tests or checks I can do at the cruise switches or relays I can remove to try to isolate the problem? I would prefer to not spend hundreds on parts if I can isolate to the most likely cause and make that repair first.

I really appreciate any advice or thoughts.

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You should be able to measure the resistance across the terminals in different ways - I am not sure what values you should expect however. I will stick it on the list of things to check next time I get my hands on some cruise control parts.

97+ the horn is in the clock spring with the cruise and airbag.

I would check to make sure you did not pull the wires out of the clock spring when you were pulling, and unplugging the cruise control switches.

im looking for a clockspring if any1 wants to sale 1