modifying frame end tracbar mount

I am getting ready to do a wj knuckle conversion, and my last stumbling block is the trac bar. on the axle I am swaping In I have fab'd a tracbar mount at the same level as the spring perch, about two inches inboard of the spring. My two options are either get an adjustable trac bar, or try to use the one from the WJ. Buying an adjustable one leaves me with a single shear ball joint on the frame end. Not ideal. The WJ bar is double shear, and maybe an inch long or short (dont remember) of where i need to be. I was thinking of using the WJ bar and modifying or building a new frame side mount. I was thinking this would allow me to make sure my drag link and trac bar are parallel. I really dont know much about suspension geometry, so I was hoping this is where some one could help. If I move the frame side trac bar mounting point in or out say, two inches, or up or down, how will it affect my road manners? As it is the jeep handles great all the way to 100, and I dont want to change that.

The WJ bar is shorter than stock by I think about 3-4 inches. Is it a problem that its a different length than the drag link?
This is my dd, and I Have basically built it to get up Vail pass when its puking snow. I cant really afford to break it right now, so I dont wheel. That being said, I dont really care about flex and droop, as long as it doesnt affect drivability.

99 2dr 4.6 ax-15 231 30/8.25 3.07 31" on 4.5"--with this axle swap 30/8.8 4.10

Thank you
Lightfoot

Wow this is really a complex question. I guess trying tomake thing simple as I can. You need to keep the track bar to spring side as far as you can, and you want your tie rod, and track bar to be as close to paralell to each toher as possible. That set up will result in no issues of bump steer etc. Your drivers side end using the WJ set up, sounds like you need to fab something up to work for your application. Paralellis the key word of advice I have. I would do a search and check out the other WJ conversions, and get soem ideas from what they are doing..

I was thinking of buying double shear trac bar conversion bracket http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=ZSC
The problem is, i do not think the hole for the shear pin, and the hole through the bushing will line up exactly with the WJ track bar being the length that it is. I do believe though that it is within about an inch and a half. If I was to build my own conversion bracket leaving a little more metal around the track bar end, I could then drill the hole according to the track bar length, and make it parallel at the same time. Is moving this end of the track bar going to make any noticeable difference anywhere else?
I could just buy that kit and be done with it, but If I can save 180$ by doing a little welding im all for it.

It won't make much difference, nothing you would ever notice. However, it would be some work to fabricate a new track bar mount just so you could use a shorter track bar, which while it won't matter much it isn't ideal. If you have the skills to make a new bracket, why don't you just make your own track bar?

There's nothing wrong with the single sheer frame side track bar mount like RE uses. It's been around a long time with plenty of people using it without issues. It's also very simple to convert it to double sheer. You can make a small U shaped bracket to bolt and weld to the bottom of the stock track bar mount and then mount the track bar in double sheer. I did this a long time ago with my RE adjustable track bar.

I wouldn't do extra work to use a shorter track bar, even though it would work.