5-90 while you're here, could you explain the need for the ANL option? I've read the description on the site but don't understand why a fuse/fuse block, etc. is needed to keep cruise intact?
It's got naught to do with cruise/speed control.
If you check the OEM alternator output lead, you'll likely note a short segment of smaller-gage wiring just before the PDC/distribution point (it's four number gages smaller. If it's not there, you've got an OBD-I PDC - and you'll find a pair of MAXI fuses labelled "Generator" in there.)
This smaller-gage wire segment is a fusible link - essentially, a high-current fuse. It's there to protect the vehicle electronics if your alternator's field coils should happen to get full battery voltage, instead of the 0.5-4.0VDC normally fed to them by the regulator circuit.
If the alternator coils get full battery voltage, a few things happen all at once:
1) The diodes tend to "short through" - and the AC voltage inside the alternator isn't recitifed (converted) to DC voltage for the vehicle anymore. PROBLEM.
2) The alternator's output
current swings to well past the maximum rated output - we're talking something like a surge of 400-600A. PROBLEM
3) The output
voltage also takes a huge jump - we'll be seeing something like 90VAC coming out of the alternator. PROBLEM.
Normally, the regulator keeps overcurrent conditions down by regulating the alternator's output voltage (trust me - it's workable. Current and voltage in a closed circuit are mathematically related...) so that enough current is provided to keep systems running and keep the battery topped off - once the engine is running, the battery gets recharged (from the high-current start) and is along for the ride, if everything is working right.
Now, if you were to
replace the alternator output lead, you run into eliminating the OEM circuit protection device - which suddenly increases the risk of electronic damage and engine bay fire. Ouch.
By offering the ANL fuse option, I give you the ability to restore that fuse protection for the vehicle - it works in the same manner as the fusible link (or any other fuse,) but the ANL fuses are easier to find than large-gage fusible link wire, and the fuse can be changed inside of a minute using nothing by a 9/16" wrench. PROBLEM SOLVED.
When I devised that kit, I narrowed the field down to MAXI fuses, AGU fuses, ANL fuses, or MEGA fuses.
MAXI - Large plastic blade fuses, looks like an enlarged ATO/ATC fuse (and you've got plenty of those in an XJ.) Only available up to 80A, and I don't like having to "gang" fuses to protect a circuit.
MEGA - Available up to about 400A, but only really available from industrial electric/electronic houses.
AGU - A large glass tube fuse, kinda like a bigger version of the old AGC fuses that used to be in cars. Available up to around 300A, but I didn't like the idea of putting a glass tube underhood on a 4WD.
ANL - A plastic wafer fuse, mounted by the slotted contact tabs. Can be changed quickly and easily, the fuse block footprint is comparable to the AGU and MEGA fuses, and available 60-600A. Rugged and reliable, and ratings 100-300A can usually be found in autosound houses in a pinch.
You can probably guess why I selected the ANL fuse. As most people here can probably tell you, I design for reliability, simplicity, and ease of servicing (my thumb rule is "The next poor schmuck to work on this will be me - in the dark, with my Multi-Plier and Swiss Army knife, and maybe a rock.") I build everything like I'm going to put it on my wife's vehicle (I'm a mechanic - she's not. I don't care so much if I break down - I damned sure
do care if she has trouble!)
But, as I said at the start, the ANL kit has
nothing whatever to do with the speed control system - it's a safety device. Most other outfits that make custom HD battery cabling won't do the alternator cable for that reason (J&C has told me that's why they don't do the alternator cable as part of their kit,) and some of the outfits that do don't do anything to restore that fuse protection.
Every vehicle I've ever worked on, made since 1950, has had a fuse or fusible link in that circuit. I've not seen one that was blown, but we can readily assume that the engineers won that argument with the accountants for a reason (even if Legal did help Engineering. Consumer safety, y'know...)
Make more sense now?