• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Can anyone guide me to a picture

XJ4Christ

XJ4Christ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Topeka, KS
I picked up a [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]coolant temperature sending unit from NAPA today along with oil pressure unit for my gauge cluster that i just installed. The oil unit was labled on their computer as for gauge. They only had one coolant temp unit listed and did not say for idiot light or gauge. I took both but can only i guess return the coolant temp unit if i dont install it. I figured if it looks different than probably the one.. well the darn thing looks the same. The oil unit looks same but longer for most part. So I was hoping someone might know if the coolant temp send unit looks the same for both idiot light and gauge? If so than i might risk the 30 bucks spend installing it and see. If it looks different than I probably would get a different one. I have not unscrewed the idiot light one yet just looked at the thing and it looks same from top etc.

Oh and second question :). I read these things can break off and such (I hope not). Any tricks to getting them out to avoid that? Also when i install the new ones do i need to put anything on the threads to seal them and or can i put anti seize on them or does it matter? :).

[/SIZE][/FONT]
 
Last edited:
The oil sender looks longer, but appears that is the correct one and their computer showed it as being the one for gauge cluster.

The temperature sender has me pounding my head and rubbing my eyes. I cant find anything very helpful. Napa has no clue (their computer did not say and was only one listed according to the clerk.. although online there are 3 or so different ones they carry. I might just take it back tomorrow as i found Morris 4x4 has theirs marked on their website for "gauges" and cheaper. Not sure quality difference, but i heard NAPA temp senders having issues in a couple threads since looking to confirm what type of sender i got. I will post napa number tomorrow in case one of u knows if its the one for gauges or not :).

It might be possible the one i got in the rig from previous owners had a gauge cluster type installed and does not work too i guess as it appeared the gauge cluster had been removed before.. dont know.
 
it would help if you posted some specs on your rig, like what year it is.

On the HOs there are 2 sending units, one for the guage and one for the computer. I believe the one for the guage is the one mounted on the thermostat housing, the other is in the back left (drivers side) corner of the head.
I may have that switched around though, Without more info about your XJ I can't be of much help to you.
the one at the back of the head is 1/8th inch NPT pipe thread, and the one in the thermo housing is 1/4" NPT pipe thread i believe.

PM me.

I am a counterman/manager at a NAPA Auto Parts store ;) I can get into the cataloging system from home as well, so shoot me a message and I'll help you sort it all out. The NAPA website is pretty impossible to navigate easily. As far as quality, all of NAPA's engine electrical parts are manufactured by NAPA/ECHLIN Ignition systems, which is now owns Standard Ignition Electronics, the largest producer of vehicle electrical components in the world. The only place you will get a higher quality part is from the dealer, and even then NAPA sources most of their products from the companies that manufacture parts for the automakers themselves - so chances are it's the same part made by the same company.
 
Last edited:
GrimmJeeper said:
it would help if you posted some specs on your rig, like what year it is.

On the HOs there are 2 sending units, one for the guage and one for the computer. I believe the one for the guage is the one mounted on the thermostat housing, the other is in the back left (drivers side) corner of the head.
I may have that switched around though, Without more info about your XJ I can't be of much help to you.
the one at the back of the head is 1/8th inch NPT pipe thread, and the one in the thermo housing is 1/4" NPT pipe thread i believe.

PM me.

I am a counterman/manager at a NAPA Auto Parts store ;) I can get into the cataloging system from home as well, so shoot me a message and I'll help you sort it all out. The NAPA website is pretty impossible to navigate easily. As far as quality, all of NAPA's engine electrical parts are manufactured by NAPA/ECHLIN Ignition systems, which is now owns Standard Ignition Electronics, the largest producer of vehicle electrical components in the world. The only place you will get a higher quality part is from the dealer, and even then NAPA sources most of their products from the companies that manufacture parts for the automakers themselves - so chances are it's the same part made by the same company.
Click to expand...

OK cool i will send u a PM :). I forgot u were a NAPA guy or would have done so faster :). I also feel sort of silly cause i forgot to add my jeep info lol. 1990 Renix Cherokee 4.0
 
GrimmJeeper said:
PM replied to, hope it helps get you sorted out.
Click to expand...

Yeah i wrote the part number down and going to do some more looking when the weather gets better (freezing right now in my carport lol). I really appreciate it :)
 
I know that the oil sender is different. And I think there are a couple of part #'s for the coolant sending unit, but not sure. i swapped from dummy lights to gauges and swapped out oil and coolant sensor. I need a new oil sender tho, mine doesn't work correctly.
The later models that still have the sensor in the rear of the head I believe are the same?
 
At some point the CTS and the temperature gauge sender/idiot light sender became a single piece in the thermostat housing--the gauge/idiot light on these is actually fed off of the PCM.

On your Renix the gauge/idiot light sender is in the head, driver's side rear, the sender is different for gauges--a variable resistor, and the idiot light--a simple switch. As the gauge/idiot light is a single contact sender you don't want to use any sealer that will interfere with the ground contact between the sender's body and the head. Use a sealer that is conductive.

Just be careful when removing it--the common breakage is from tool slippage breaking the top of the sender, it just ruins the sending unit but you can still remove it.
 
One thing you can do is use CRC electrical contact cleaner to clean the connector for it, then plug it into the new sensor and get a pot of water boiling. Once it's boiled, get out a piece of bell wire (or coathangar wire for all I care, doesn't matter in this case) and use it to connect the screw threads on the sensor to the block while dipping it into the pot of water business-end first. You should see the gauge spike upwards toward operating temp (a helper will be useful here.)

If the gauge just goes from one position to another, it's an idiot-light sender.

If you have access to a multimeter, you should measure 1600-7500 ohms from the connector pin to the threads on the sensor when it is at room temperature. If you measure infinite or near zero ohms, it's an idiot light sender.
 
Yep as Kastein and Joe say. The temp sensor for the gauge is at the rear of the head. You can see it dead center in the picture below. It has the 90* connector on top.

ENGINEBAY_0093Small.jpg


Use a deep socket with an extesion. I use a T bar to make sure I turn it without any side force.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Temp Gauge Reads High With New Senosr
Replies
15
Views
1K
TheDXJ
T
J
Running just fine then dies at idle on street
Replies
4
Views
2K
90xj06
9
U
Dash blank
Replies
0
Views
48
Unclewolverine
U
T
Torque Pro
Replies
0
Views
1K
tantotrailers
T
B
Reasons for white exhaust smoke besides head gasket?
Replies
1
Views
827
RCP Phx
R
Back
Top