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Dana 44 swap

falcon556

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tulsa
I am planning to replace my Dana 35 with a Dana 44 out of a XJ.
The D44 yoke sticks out more than the 35, do I have to shorten the drive shaft?
I don't plan to lift it.
 
hi there you wont haft to do anything to your drive line i just got done doing the same swap but i will tell you that i cut off my spring pads and welded the pads i had on the 35 back on the 44 and when i done that i turned the pinion angle up to help with the drive line angles and i wheel every sunday and havent had any problems yet with my set up maybe this will help you
 
rckddy said:
hi there you wont haft to do anything to your drive line i just got done doing the same swap but i will tell you that i cut off my spring pads and welded the pads i had on the 35 back on the 44 and when i done that i turned the pinion angle up to help with the drive line angles and i wheel every sunday and havent had any problems yet with my set up maybe this will help you

Thanks for the information.
 
emmsdad said:
I'm definatly a noob but, if you're swapping a 44 from an XJ it should bolt right in with no mods.

That's what I thought till I noticed that it sticks out more than the D35.
I guess there is enough tolerance to take the extra length without interference.
 
just look at your driveshaft where it goes into the tcase. A part of it should be shiny from sliding back and forth into the tcase. The D44 will move the driveshaft about an inch forward. Take a good look and make sure there is more than an inch from the shiny part to where the slip yoke changes diameter. If there is more than an inch, you should be fine. If there is less than an inch, you are pressing it. Some longer bump stops can help limit the slip yoke travel, but you will get a bumpy ride when you hit a bump.
 
old_man said:
just look at your driveshaft where it goes into the tcase. A part of it should be shiny from sliding back and forth into the tcase. The D44 will move the driveshaft about an inch forward. Take a good look and make sure there is more than an inch from the shiny part to where the slip yoke changes diameter. If there is more than an inch, you should be fine. If there is less than an inch, you are pressing it. Some longer bump stops can help limit the slip yoke travel, but you will get a bumpy ride when you hit a bump.

I have the newer sealed output.
I can take the rubber boot off and see how much more travel I have.
I was thinking about getting somebody to shake the XJ up and down while I observe how far the drive shaft moves.
 
Last edited:
Having replaced 3 dana 35's with dana 44's, you will probably have to cut just about 1" off of your driveshaft.

At least, I've had to with an 87, 94 and 98.
 
cal said:
Having replaced 3 dana 35's with dana 44's, you will probably have to cut just about 1" off of your driveshaft.

At least, I've had to with an 87, 94 and 98.

How close to running out of travel were you?
How much did you need?
How hard/expensive is it? I guess I'm gonna have to call some driveshaft places tomorrow.
 
At ride height (4.5" of lift on the 87) I had maybe .6" if "in" play on the yoke before it bottomed out on the output bearings of my transfer case.

I think it cost me $45 to have the shaft shortened and rebalanced at the local shop. They did it while I waited. The guy even gave me a beer to drink to pass the time.
 
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