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Cheap driveshaft for SYE (and general driveline questions)

VAXJCOUNTRY

NAXJA Forum User
First, hello NAXJA. I am new to this forum and sorta new to Jeeps, but not the car hobby. I am on Cherokee forum quite a bit but I have been told by several other XJ owners this is the place to be. Let me give you a quick run down on my setup and my questions. I searched "SYE" but no results were found. I'm sure I'm not doing something right there because I am sure it has been discussed. I've read all of the FAQ and have done lots of research but I still have to ask.


1997 Cherokee Country, 4.0, AW4, NP-231 T-case. 3.55 geared 8.25.
Lift - 3in procomp coils on the front, Bastard pack rear at about 4in. 31in tires.

The problem - lots of vibes and chattering/droning. Chattering is at interstate speeds with just enough throttle to neither accelerate or decelerate (unloaded drivetrain). I have been told this is the u-joints.

Attempts to fix - Rusty's 1in T-case drop then a custom 3/4in t-case drop. Taking the case up made it better at lower speeds but even worse at higher speeds. New U-joints, fluid in the diff.

Conclusion at this point - I need an SYE but I cannot afford $500. So I am thinking a hack-n-tap and some sort of shaft. I don't want to drop $300 on a custom shaft so I come with the following questions.

Question 1 - SYE sound like the fix? I know its hard to answer but its where I am leaning and all my research as pointed. Seems like 96 and newer is even more prone to driveline issues.

Question 2 - Is there some OEM shaft I can use? I swore I saw someone use an XJ stock front shaft on the back once. Can't find the links or info now. Any cheap source for a shaft or data on how to measure for ordering one would be great.

Question 3 - Hack-n-tap good enough for 31's and mild wheelin?
 
welcome!! try searching for "hack" and check the "related posts" at the bottom of the page for more

(the search function doesn't work with less than 4 letters)
 
First, hello NAXJA. I am new to this forum and sorta new to Jeeps, but not the car hobby. I am on Cherokee forum quite a bit but I have been told by several other XJ owners this is the place to be. Let me give you a quick run down on my setup and my questions. I searched "SYE" but no results were found. I'm sure I'm not doing something right there because I am sure it has been discussed. I've read all of the FAQ and have done lots of research but I still have to ask.


1997 Cherokee Country, 4.0, AW4, NP-231 T-case. 3.55 geared 8.25.
Lift - 3in procomp coils on the front, Bastard pack rear at about 4in. 31in tires.

The problem - lots of vibes and chattering/droning. Chattering is at interstate speeds with just enough throttle to neither accelerate or decelerate (unloaded drivetrain). I have been told this is the u-joints.

Attempts to fix - Rusty's 1in T-case drop then a custom 3/4in t-case drop. Taking the case up made it better at lower speeds but even worse at higher speeds. New U-joints, fluid in the diff.

Conclusion at this point - I need an SYE but I cannot afford $500. So I am thinking a hack-n-tap and some sort of shaft. I don't want to drop $300 on a custom shaft so I come with the following questions.

Question 1 - SYE sound like the fix? I know its hard to answer but its where I am leaning and all my research as pointed. Seems like 96 and newer is even more prone to driveline issues.

Question 2 - Is there some OEM shaft I can use? I swore I saw someone use an XJ stock front shaft on the back once. Can't find the links or info now. Any cheap source for a shaft or data on how to measure for ordering one would be great.

Question 3 - Hack-n-tap good enough for 31's and mild wheelin?
Yeah, a 4.0/automatic front shaft (probably anywhere from 87 to 01, really) should probably work. You'll want to measure first most likely. You can pick them up for 20 bucks at a you-pull-it, so it's not the biggest deal if you end up not being able to use it (though you would have to drive around in 4hi/front wheel drive with no shaft for a while I guess.) Answer to question one - probably. The chattering sound may actually be your exhaust bouncing off something - mine has rubbed on the leaf springs, gas tank pinch weld, the side of my rear diff, and the transmission crossmember at different times in its life, depending on what was broken at the moment :roflmao:

The transfer case drop probably reduced your rear vibes, but increased your front driveshaft vibes.
 
The chattering might be the exhaust against the fuel tank skid. It only has about 1/4in clearance. I think I'm going to do an SYE swap anyway. I might use my front shaft....and drive it around in two wheel drive until I buy another one...lol.

The front shaft is a double cardan type right? The RE Hack-n-tap says it works with CV shafts...what do?
 
You Didnt call me, neighbor. The RE H&T is a flange style, If you use a front DS an adaptor is needed.Try looking up GoJeeps site he has a write up using a different yoke for the H&T. I may still have some of my old DS parts from when I used the RE H&T.

Wayne
 
Here is a long long thread that goes through a bunch of cheap solutions for the rear SYE. I suggest saving the pennines and getting an SYE conversion kit (I used PORC which is out of business now I think). There are a ton of links in this thread. READ IT ALL and follow the links. You will have absorbed about 90% of the wisdom, criticism and BS surrounding H&T, SYE conversions and rear bearing support thats out there by the time you are done.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008&highlight=SYE+bearing+support


John
 
^ Xamillion. Warning though, the BS nosigma is talking about can get a bit confusing, about half a dozen people suggested the same two or three wrong parts and ideas in that thread. Overall, you'll gain a lot of useful info though.

The Iron Rock kit is great if you don't feel like picking up a 20 dollar shaft and some new u-joints, some grade 8 hardware, a tap, and the yoke for 80 bucks from driveline.com.

Also remember you'll need to re-shim the rear end during this install or you WILL have horrible vibes due to the now-extreme pinion angle.
 
You Didnt call me, neighbor. The RE H&T is a flange style, If you use a front DS an adaptor is needed.Try looking up GoJeeps site he has a write up using a different yoke for the H&T. I may still have some of my old DS parts from when I used the RE H&T.

Wayne

lol, knew posting over here wasn't going to free me from catching shit from you. Why don't you come down and school me on this stuff so I don't have to ask questions? I just want answers...I don't like reading. Whats so hard about "I want an SYE and I have $150 to spend." :kissyou:
 
Whats so hard about "I want an SYE and I have $150 to spend." :kissyou:

Again, look at IRO. You can buy the h&t alone for $120 then source a used front shaft locally for about $20. Carefully inspect or replace the U joints in the used shaft and you will be good to go for about $150.

Matt:yelclap:
 
3103-27cv is the part number. It'll cost you 80 from them (give or take) or... 120 from iron rock. Not really much of a choice IMO :dunno:

You can pick up the tap and required bolts/washers at Home Depot for under 20.
 
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