8.25 Hub Removal

Hey guys, hoping to getting around to fixing this today at some point, so quick responses would be really awesome.

Went to remove the wheel off of my moms TJ, and 2 of the 5 lugs decided to eat themselves... So, I need to either replace the hub, or two of the studs on the hub. I have never done this before... so, what am I getting into?

I'm assuming that the hub comes of the end of the axle somehow. (BTW... I'm quite certain its the 8.25, and has drum brakes. Exactly the same as my 97 XJ) So, what is best approach here? Remove hub is a definite... but how does that come off? Do I have to pull the axle shaft?

Here are some pics to confirm what I'm dealing with...

That is a d35, no flat edge on the lower side of the housing.

Tools needed:
* GOOD quality (gearwrench or equivalent) 1/4" and/or 5/16" (I forget which) box wrench, ratcheting ones are great
* rags rags rags rags and more rags
* couple cans of brake cleaner
* RTV
* gasket scraper

Easiest way - pop the cap (probably needs a diff fluid change anyways), pull the cross pin retaining bolt (what you need that good quality wrench for... don't use a socket wrench, and don't use an open end wrench, unless you like rounding off bolts), pull the spiders, pull a c clip, yank the shaft out.

If you use an 8mm wrench, an open end wrench of any size, or a socket and ratchet on that retaining bolt, you will almost certainly be turning the air blue.

EDIT: you may be able to get new lugs in there by turning the shaft till it lines up with a spot with some space behind it, but it might require removing some of the drum brake hardware and frankly I'd rather pull a diff apart than screw around with drum brake shoes.

The hubs are actually forged onto the ends of the shafts, I believe. Try to avoid pounding on the lugs to get them out, it could damage the bearings, using some sockets and a C clamp (or a tool meant for the purpose) is rumored to work better.

Plus...TJ never came with the C8.25, AFAIK...

Sure it did. And the XJ came stock with an 8.8 in some cases.

Hmm... ill have to take a better look at my XJ now haha. Learn something everyday...

I was afraid of having to pull the diff apart... might be above my abilities thus far... Since its my moms jeep, I'm probably going to tell her to just send it to a mechanic :-/ Shes got the cash to spend haha. I'm going to be heading out of town for the weekend, and really don't have the time to experiment with something like this. I was hoping it could be more simple to get done in a day kinda deal... Thanks for the quick replies!!

Diff work* is pretty easy. I would bet I could get that entire job done in two hours - and that's including scraping the RTV off the diff/cover. Pulling the spider gears is way easier than it sounds, the wrench you need costs 13 dollars and is great to have around for other reasons.

* that does not require ring/pinion gear stuff. I stay away from that.

IIRC, there are stud removers that can be used to push out those studs *IF* there's room behind the drive flange to remove it. They look like C-clamps on steroids, and have an open loop that the button head of the stud extends through. Check with your local auto parts shops, they may have one for rent.

kastein said:

Sure it did. And the XJ came stock with an 8.8 in some cases.

Click to expand...

LOL...you must remember my old sig quote, from "cherokeefreak" I think...

I like my new one just as much though

yeah, the freaks got it going that's for sure...

I was in the thread that sig quote came from, so yeah I remember it :roflmao:

Easy work, BFH, some pb blaster, 2 new studes, open end lugnut, little grease and a good impact. Spray the base of the studs front and back. Use your hammer to knock them through the hub. Lube the splines on the new studs with a little grease,pull them through by hand and rotate untill you feel the splines on the stud line up with the splines on the hub. Put an open end lugnut on the stud and use a good impact to pull them in. It might take a little bit finding an easy way the feed the new one in from the back but it can be done. Take your time pulling them in and make sure you put the flat side of the lugnut facing the hub when you seat them with the impact.

I really dislike using a sledge for this. Ultimately, you are pounding through the bearings, and that does them no good at all.

:sure:

Kevin, thats definitely a Dana 35 not the 8.25.

You DO NOTTTT have to remove the AXLE SHAFT to get the stud out. There is no "hub", that flange is part of the axle shaft. Just get a BFH and pound it out.

Holy shit, before she pays a mechanic to do it, drive it up to PSU and ill do it in the parking lot. It wouldnt be the first time...:moon:

I would not suggest BFH for the same reasons Jeff listed. You can do it, but then again, you can put 37s on a dana 35 too, it's still probably a poor plan of action.

The axle is a C-clip axle, and the bearings are roller style, so it won't beat up the wheel bearings, but it will be slamming the end of the shaft into the cross pin and therefore likely smacking up the carrier bearings instead.

It does not take that much force to remove a stud. If you take it to a shop, I would make a bet they will use a hammer to remove it. The only reason I gave the advice I gave is because I've seen a "shop" do it that way.

Hmm... Ill have to find out about that c-clamp thing if my parents haven't already took the jeep to the shop... I have got loner tools from my local advance auto before. There should be enough room to back them out. I don't know about getting new ones back in though?? Guess it depends how the tool works... Thanks again for the replies!

Putting the new one in is easy, follow rehberg79's instructions on that to the letter and you'll be all set.

Alright... jeep never got to the mechanic, so I guess i'll be tackling this one on Tuesday. I guess it seems straight forward... I'd hope to get the c-clamp tool, or find something similar to press the studs out, rather than beating the axle. Then again, this poor TJ is a baby... never seen anything worse than a rainy day :-/

One question... Where to get the studs? Is this going to be a stealership part?

nah, the auto parts store you're getting the stud tool from should have new studs too. they will have a couple different sizes, make sure you don't get new ones that are too long to fit between all the brake parts.

alright cool deal. I can probably go get the tool, press them out, and take the tool back, with the pulled studs, and match 'em up! Thanks!

^^This...