Installing a Hack&Tap in a manual

I'm picking up an 8.8 next week, and while I'm at it I'm planning on doing a diy hack&tap but recently found out that because I have a manual, the front driveshaft will not be long enough.

Is this true? Anyone have any suggestions as to a driveshaft that will work?

I have an 89, with a 5speed peugeot tranny, and an NP231 transfer case. None of which are stock so I don't know what year vehicles they came out of. I've got arround 5.5" of lift The xfer case has been dropped about 2" and I'd like to get rid of it.

Thanks!

You have a lot of problems-
The swap to the 8.8 will require a new drive shaft or at least adapters to mate the flange on the 8.8 to the U-joint on your current rear drive shaft.
The front drive shaft will be Ok as is.
The H&T will have a flange also(RE style),so the TC end of the driveshaft will need a flange style CV unit.
Also be on the look out for a new tranny--your on borrowed time with that BA5/10

Wayne

Wayne Sihler said:

Also be on the look out for a new tranny--your on borrowed time with that BA5/10
Wayne

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Is that the same POS that was in the '87 Wranglers? If so....blech.

I know about all of those issues. What I'm asking about is when I do the hack and tap, I will need to replace the rear driveshaft with a front drive shaft to get the CV joint. But my rear driveshaft is longer due to the manual being shorter than the auto. So, will I need a different driveshaft? Will the front work as-is without cutting? What should I do?

Probably the easiest would be to just have a shaft made. Tom Woods makes great ones, but expensive. Look around locally for a driveshaft shop, they should be able to make one for you for less.

Otherwise, you'll just have to measure the length you need and start looking for shafts that'll match.

You will have flanges on both ends so that will add some length. If its too short you can have a local shop re-tube a front shaft to make it longer. I know the local shop here charges like $50 to have a shaft shortened or lenghtend.

I was never able to find a 'stock application' XJ front shaft that would work as a rear shaft with an SYE and 5-speed.

I believe the ZJ automatic front shafts are longer than XJ ones, you may be able to find one that would work.

vetteboy said:

I was never able to find a 'stock application' XJ front shaft that would work as a rear shaft with an SYE and 5-speed.

I believe the ZJ automatic front shafts are longer than XJ ones, you may be able to find one that would work.

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Yes, The ZJ auto front shafts are an inch or so longer.

Good luck. You're changing a lot all at the same time. The 8.8 has a different pinion length (rumored closer to the d35, not sure if that includes the adapter flange or not) and I haven't really figured anything out yet. I have exactly the same intents as you, but with an automatic transmission. Luckily my XJ is no longer my DD and I can afford to have it out of commission for a while, so I'm going to just throw the axle in and see if the front driveshaft fits, if it doesn't, I'll have it retubed and call it good.

Let us know what you figure out. Im in just about exactly the same boat. 99, ax-15, np231, 4.5", looking to put in an 8.8 and do a hack n' tap. The shaft has been my biggest stumbling block because its my dd, and I cant really be without it while one is being made.
As far as the flange at the pinion end of the shaft, its my understanding that you can use the stock one from the 8.8 if you pulled it. Someone will have to verify that though. I think someone makes a spacer plate for it too if you come up a little short on shaft length.

Stock one from an 8.8 is made for 1330 U-joints. You can pick up adapter U-joints that have one pair of 1310 caps and one pair of 1330 caps though.

If you need one that fits 1310s, it's Dana Spicer part number 2-2-1379. I picked mine up for $21.80 plus shipping from alljeep.com. Bear in mind if you get a junkyard 8.8, you will want/need heat to remove the bolts holding the stock flange adapter on, they are stuck in with red loctite. They're 12mm 12 point bolts.

I'd really worry more about driveshaft length than the flange + U-joint issue - you can buy the parts for the flange/U-joint problem ahead of time, but figuring out the required driveshaft length ahead of time is more troublesome. However, you could consider just leaving the rear shaft out, putting it in 4hi, and driving a FWD XJ for a while, as long as you have an NP231 instead of a 242 transfer case.

Not my daily driver. I put less than 200 miles a year on it.

kastein said:

Stock one from an 8.8 is made for 1330 U-joints. You can pick up adapter U-joints that have one pair of 1310 caps and one pair of 1330 caps though.

If you need one that fits 1310s, it's Dana Spicer part number 2-2-1379. I picked mine up for $21.80 plus shipping from alljeep.com. Bear in mind if you get a junkyard 8.8, you will want/need heat to remove the bolts holding the stock flange adapter on, they are stuck in with red loctite. They're 12mm 12 point bolts.

I'd really worry more about driveshaft length than the flange + U-joint issue - you can buy the parts for the flange/U-joint problem ahead of time, but figuring out the required driveshaft length ahead of time is more troublesome. However, you could consider just leaving the rear shaft out, putting it in 4hi, and driving a FWD XJ for a while, as long as you have an NP231 instead of a 242 transfer case.

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Why? Just shift the 242 into PART TIME and you will be good to go!

... point taken, forgot about that. I know very little about 242s, so I figured better play it safe than sorry on the advice... I'd rather tell someone they can't do something and be corrected than tell them it's possible, have no one notice, and leave someone without a daily driver.