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1990 codes???

B

blindhog13

NAXJA Forum User
Location
goldfield nevada
i have a 1990 xj 2 door i got it with no motor and it had been sitting on blocks for years .
put a new motor in it got it started but has no power under load in gear just falls on it s head .in park/neut. i can rev it up to beat hell .
i bought a code reader obd 1/2 from JCW but it dosent read jeep 1990 "L" vin # .any way is ther a obd reader on the market that a guy can buy that dose this modle year? or can i use the key "on off"trick
ive been all over the jeep with a volt ohm all seem well ,cat. converter replaced .
i think i have wornout my chilton manuel and tryed to find any thing i can on here has helped .
any help would be greatfull
 
The Renix does not "throw codes", as it has no on-board diagnostics. There is a device that reads its sensors and diagnoses problems, but I'm sure it's expensive. If you have a FSM most of the individual systems can be diagnosed with a mutimeter.
 
This ^^^

The "lowest reader" I can think of for the RENIX setup is the Snap-On MT2500, which you can find used on eBay and such (several hundred to a thousand dollars a crack tho, and $20-50 for the JEEP-1 adapter cable. I'm still trying to score a unit cheap, just for my own work.)

However, as mentioned, a quality DMM will do most of the tests you are likely to need. There are one or two where you will require an analogue (sweep needle) meter, but the DMM will handle most readily. There's also a couple of advanced tests that an oscilloscope will be handy for, but they're really not something the hobbyist should worry about anyhow (and a decent digital oscilloscope can be had for a $200-500, with a little looking, if you don't mind getting an off-brand (You can get a Fluke - but that's $1500-2000 easily.)

PM me your email addy, and I'll see if I have a copy of the RENIX FI manual that I can send you. Between that and an FSM, you'll have everything you need to know (you can find secondhand FSMs on eBay in the range of $20-100, typically around $50 or so. Anything 1987-1990 will cover the RENIX system.)
 
what year motor? anything but an 87-90 will give you problems without the 87-90 flexplate/flywheel and electronics.

falling on its face could be the timing is off. its not adjustable by means of turning the distributor while in place, but the distributor must be installed/indexed proporly. a few teeth off, it will fall on its face with a load put on it, but rev just fine.

also, go tohttp://www.lunghd.com xxxxxxx to on site tech and look for anything renix anlong with this: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Jeep_Renix_Fuel_Injection_manual.pdf
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I agree with the other posters.

The original dealer DRB scanner, when it can be found on eBay, is usually prohibitively expensive.

5-90's post on the Snap-On 2500 "Brick" is correct, but I think you also need the correct "card" along with the "Brick" and correct cable.

One or two teeth off on the distributor will give you the symptoms you describe, as already pointed out.
 
I found on my 87 that one tooth advanced on the distributor would start hard but run well. One tooth retarded would start perfectly and idle well but stall when throttle was applied. There's a little variation possible here, so it's possible that a tooth back would rev with no power, but mine wouldn't get there at all. It might be worth a try to put it forward by one. Just make sure you can remember where you started if it doesn't help.

If you haven't yet, you should make sure the throttle position sensor is adjusted right. Search or post back if you need the voltage specs. It's pretty critical, and I found that even a little variation would cause it to hesitate or stumble on acceleration.

"FSM" = "Factory Service Manual," by the way, at least on automotive forums. On religious and anti-religious fora it might be the Flying Spaghetti Monster, but we won't get into Pastafarian issues here.
 
joe_peters said:
I agree with the other posters.

The original dealer DRB scanner, when it can be found on eBay, is usually prohibitively expensive.

5-90's post on the Snap-On 2500 "Brick" is correct, but I think you also need the correct "card" along with the "Brick" and correct cable.

One or two teeth off on the distributor will give you the symptoms you describe, as already pointed out.
Click to expand...

The basic "card" will work - you just need the adapter...
 
thanks fellas
its is a 1990 at least that what the kid a the kragen said he sold me
when i frrst started it it did just exactly as Mathew Curries did advanced one tooth and was better actually drove it around block and to local watterin hole next day it went but lwhat a turd. now sometimes you can grt it to go but you gotta hold yer mouth just right .i changed out rad.to a 91 open set up and now the tempguage gets up around 220 within just a few minutes . would the temp sensor cause this
 
5-90 said:
The basic "card" will work - you just need the adapter...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification, Jon. :wave1:

Had my eye on a 2500 on eBay for a way low price, but no cable and it didn't have the backlit screen, decided to pass.
 
blindhog13 said:
thanks fellas
its is a 1990 at least that what the kid a the kragen said he sold me
when i frrst started it it did just exactly as Mathew Curries did advanced one tooth and was better actually drove it around block and to local watterin hole next day it went but lwhat a turd. now sometimes you can grt it to go but you gotta hold yer mouth just right .i changed out rad.to a 91 open set up and now the tempguage gets up around 220 within just a few minutes . would the temp sensor cause this
Click to expand...

So, the engine will now accelerate, but a little fussy about the throttle? That sounds a bit like the TPS needs testing/adjustment/replacement.

Did you change the thermostat? Did you flush the system before you installed the new radiator? Is the fan clutch working? Did you get all the air out of the system--even open systems need to get all the air out.
 
yes suuuuppper fussy forget driving up hill
all new tstat water pump
new motor new rad probly just air in system but i thought i read somewhere that the coolant temp sensor affects the tranny er something
holy crap i feel dumb
 
Try parking "nose up" with the radiator cap at the highest point. Let the engine cool for a couple hours, then pull the cap and top off the radiator, and make sure the recovery bottle is full to the "Cold" mark.

A new engine will run warmer than an engine that is broken in, but keep your eye on things.
 
thanks it seems that i had to burp the cooling system and it much cooler now .
it still runs like ass heres what i did today and some results
i checked set TPS
double checked timing for the billionth time( advanvce one wont start retard one starts but cant rev for it dies)
MAP sensor, now i had 3.5 output so replaced with one from runnin xj still 3.5 volts when i unplug plastic line at throtle body it ran better but still not good enough to even live with .
dose the map have to be between 4.5 and 5 volts or is 3.5 ok ??
fuel injectors i have 17.9 to 18.5 ohms and power to them aswell
the one thing im not sure is is fuel pressure (no guage i would buy one but the nearest autoprat store is bout 2hrs away) but seems like a lot when i push the shrader valve.
when i got the car it had no motor and wires just hangin there could i have gotten the injectors mixed up and how can you time them to thier cylndrs
thank you very much
 
blindhog13 said:
and oh ya spark plugs are dry and black when it dose start it smokes not black not blue but it just burns my eyes i guess it is gray smoke
Click to expand...

You need to do a compression check to rule out internal engine problems, I don't care how new the motor is.
 
i ve been messin with this sam situation for about a month and i did a comp test like 3 weeks ago and it was good cant remember what exactly the numbers wher some where around 120 i think ?????
 
blindhog13 said:
i ve been messin with this sam situation for about a month and i did a comp test like 3 weeks ago and it was good cant remember what exactly the numbers wher some where around 120 i think ?????
Click to expand...

120 is pretty low, but could be a problem with your gauge.
 
ya itis a antique it is my father in laws and its freekin old but that was a cold comp test this car hasent ran for more than about ten min at a time total run time being aprox 40 min after new motor
 
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