Rear leaf springs - when to replace?

2000, 155k...

You guys have all been a great help recently... as my son and I were discussing putting a 3" lift on, the thought struck me that it may be easier to go with new rear leaf springs and a shorter lift/BB... This is my everday vehicle.

So how do you now when it's time to replace them with new stock leafs? Am I better off doing this before considering any kind of lift or BB? If so, anyone know who has the best price on new stock leafs?

Thanks again.

Z

If you are considering a 3" lift now is the perfect time to replace the leafs- but the complete kit- not the Add a leaf kits. You may as well replace the leafs with a good set of aftermarkets rather than buy new stock springs and throwing on a BB. Rusty's has a 3" spring pack lift kit for $418.
http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=300SP&Category_Code=sus_xj_kit

i wouldnt do things twice man. its the same number of bolts anyway. and lifts are plenty cheap for what you want. do the 3" and be done with it (with full packs). AALs sag quick in theory and ride HARSH in reality.

oh yeh..beware the inchitis
~sm

Thanks guys... guess that leads to the oft asked "which lift"... I've searched... but really only have one question left - Which lift for everyday and hauling a boat on weekends?

Thanks.

Z

I thought I'd chime in since you live in MA. I've got a '99 with 213K and I did the BB for one reason. The bolts that hold on the rear leaf springs can be very challenging to remove, especially the front bolt when rusted in place. The nuts for the front are captured within the "Frame" rail with no access. If you break the weld that holds the nut in place, you'll have to cut through the floor to access it.

My advice is to hit all the leaf spring bolts with penetrating oil for several days - start now for the weekend - then on Sat. attempt to loosen the bolts. You'll need a breaker bar and possibly a cheater bar for extra leverage. Do the rear bolt first because you can access that nut with a wrench as you loosen the bolt. If that nut is extremely difficult to loosen, then I would strongly consider a full length AAL because you can install those without removing the main leaf and bolts.

I used a Rubicon Express full length AAL and am not displeased. It rides a bit harder than before, but not excessive. You can "tune" the rear leaves by adding the full length AAL and removing the first stock leaf under the main. I haven't tried this yet, but might with a set of longer shackles i have sitting around.

I hope this helps,
Chris

true, the front leaf spring bolt can be a pain. i busted one on mine when i did the lift. knowing that, i would still rather put up with fighting that bolt ONCE than going AAL route and then having to go for a new spring pack once it saggs, especaly with the added weight of towing that you mentioned.

my advice is to do it once and do it right. depending on how heavy the trailer is and how frequently its used and what the xj is used for would dictate how stiff of a spring you want. i went with rustys for the softer spring rate. i have moved once and helped other people move twice all with trailers. the jeep hardly noticed it as far as the rear end goes (breaks were another story). a soft spring works for me on my DD/occasional trail and occasional trailer towing.