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steering box options

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I've been researching into steering box replacement options and am looking for clarification on some things. Currently running 31s plan to run 33s and MAY eventually get to 35s but it's not under active consideration. Mostly expect muddy dirt and snow, not much boulder crushing.

How suitable is the stock steering box for that type of usage? Is an upgrade to stronger steering a nicety, mandatory, or completely unnecessary? I don't mean structural reinforcements being nice, I mean "was unable to turn my 33s in deep snow before switching" or is it more like "I can push the jeep off a rock by twisting my 37s" which is a different league.

It seems that a slower turning rate is more important for off-roading and faster turning rate is better in traffic. How important is this really? This is separate from fixed-rate vs progressive-rate turning, where fixed-rate is more predictable when you're at a standstill but progressive-rate makes three-point turns in the parking lot a breeze.

I'm looking at a couple of options here, first is to just upgrade to a higher flowing pump (like the WJ V8 pump) and keep the stock box, second is to upgrade the pump and also upgrade to a higher flowing box like the Durango, and third is to upgrade the pump and switch to hydro assist on a stock-class box. What would be good choice for the application?
 
I hate to say search, but in this case it applies. There is a ton of info out there, but unfortunately you'll have to educate yourself a little to weed through some of it. Not all info is accurate.

First off, the XJ box is a variable ratio box, the slightly bigger box isn't variable. It's not higher flow, just a slightly bigger bore for more power. More powerfull (and more flow) aftermarket pumps don't cost much more than a new stock pump, so personally I wouldn't even consider doing a steering upgrade without a higher performance aftermarket pump. Check out PSC's website.
 
Okay let's try again. For those of you who do mud/snow terrain, how important is a steering box upgrade? Have you found the turning speed to be very important?

Not as important in that terrain vs. wheeling in rocks.

Stock box/pump has worked for me for the past year on 35s just fine. Granted, down at Rausch, I wish I had hydro assist when in the rocks.

I would definitely get a reinforcement plate (think C-rok) though and stronger than stock steering linkage.
 
Not as important in that terrain vs. wheeling in rocks.

Stock box/pump has worked for me for the past year on 35s just fine. Granted, down at Rausch, I wish I had hydro assist when in the rocks.

I would definitely get a reinforcement plate (think C-rok) though and stronger than stock steering linkage.
So the Crock kit bolts OVER the steering box?
 
I would definitely get a reinforcement plate (think C-rok) though and stronger than stock steering linkage.
The Hi-Country recovery brackets have sidewall plates, with the drivers side using the steering box bolts which prevents the box from tearing through the side of the unirail. I would like to replace the aluminum inside spacer with steel but that is somewhat dependent on what I do about the box. I agree with you about the steering shaft, it's definitely my weak link right now, and I think it has failed. Right now I am trying to figure out what is going to be needed for short and long term features--my guess is that I will have to replace the linkage first, then upgrade the pump, maybe add a cooler and call it done for a long time.
 
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Borgeson makes an upgraded steering shaft, though not sure how much it's worth it at ~$200.

I'd get stronger than stock draglink/tierod and be done with it. Unless you plan on wheeling in rocks much, you should be fine.
 
Upgrades are for power, not really speed. When you upgrade for power, then you have to make sure it still has good speed. If you don't do rocks, a good working stock system is most likely all you'll ever need. The steering links, drag link/tie rod, are the weak parts, not the steering shaft. The stock steering shaft can wear out, but it happens rarely. For long term reliability and trouble free wheeling, smart upgrades are always good, but no sense getting more than you need. If a stock part goes bad, then compare the cost of a performance upgrade over another stock part.
 
Honestly, for what you're describing I really don't think you'll need to worry about anything other than a stock box. I've been running 33x12.50's for the last 9 years with just the stock box, and I wheel Moab every year. I don't even have a reinforcement plate like the C-Rok. My box has finally, after 9 yrs, developed some slop and I will be upgrading in the near future. But for your application, I think you'll be just fine. When I upgrade, I'll go with either the YJ box and 4-bolt conversion from TnT, or drop some serious coin and go PSC.
 
Honestly, for what you're describing I really don't think you'll need to worry about anything other than a stock box. I've been running 33x12.50's for the last 9 years with just the stock box, and I wheel Moab every year. I don't even have a reinforcement plate like the C-Rok. My box has finally, after 9 yrs, developed some slop and I will be upgrading in the near future. But for your application, I think you'll be just fine. When I upgrade, I'll go with either the YJ box and 4-bolt conversion from TnT, or drop some serious coin and go PSC.
when you drop you steering box for replacement you may be upset with what you find........
 
There are about six different boxes that will bolt on, ranging from about 2.7 turns lock-to-lock to 3.4 turns. If they all other factors are close (IE cost, power, etc) then I should ask about the significance don't you think

OK smart ass, you're the one asking the questions. Have you called the vendors offering the six different boxes and asked what they recommend? I guess a bunch of opinions on the internet are better info. :rolleyes:

Different ratios give different feel at speed, and different power when going slower on the trail. It's not rocket science. A good aftermarket performance pump provides the pressure and volume for more power and more speed.........speed being how fast you can crank the wheel at low engine rpm's which depends on how much flow the pump is putting out, not how it feels while going faster down the road.
 
Don't you hardcore wheeler types have problems with understeer when using the stock box and it's rapid turns (IE jam the wheel and the jeep keeps going straight), while a slower box makes turning in loose surfaces more predictable? I read a long thread about that somewhere in my research although I can't find it now.

I'm guessing that it will be the same with slippery and deep terrain (ice, mud, snow) where steering is more rudder action than anything. How much of a factor? That's a damn good question!
 
Probably yeah, just wondering if I should plan to replace and if so what direction. I am looking at things like the Durango has two speeds for snow plow (slow) and regular (fast), okay plow wants predictable steering in the snow well so do I?
 
buy multiple boxes and try them out. junk yards are cheap.
 
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