• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Argh! RMS leaking AGAIN!

rocknxj

NAXJA Forum User
I spent hours and hours yesterday replacing my rear main seal. This morning, I see that it is leaking worse than ever. I'm so pissed to think I have to redo this again when I took my time to make sure I did this right the first time.

I have no idea why this is leaking. Anybody else have this happen to them? I guess I'll order a new lower bearing cap and new seals and do it again next weekend. Crap, crap, crap.
 
Is your valve cover leaking? When they leak out the back (closes to firewall), it can look like an RMS leak.
 
Also look at your oil filter adapter o-rings and the distributor mounting gasket. I did my Rear Main a couple of months ago and was still leaking oil. Pulled the inspection plate back off thinking I was going to find an oily mess around the rear main (fully expecting to have to do it again) only to find it dry. Looked over at my oil filter housing that I knew was already leaking, and it was leaking worse. I replaced those o-rings (for the 2nd time in 5 years) and now i've got to replace the distributor gasket (Have it sittin in the back of my Jeep..just haven't had time to swap it out). The oil is running down the side of the block and blowing back onto the transmission bell housing (and my starter), mocking a rear main leak.

Also look at the sender unit, they can and do leak oil from around there as well.
 
One thing that people overlook is that often it is not the RMS but the Oil Pan Seal.
A good way to distinguish the two is whether the leak is pronounced when it is running. If it is only leaking when it is sitting then it is probably the oil pan.
 
Good advice from all. It appears that the oil is indeed coming from the RMS area, but I will remove the inspection plate and check before dropping the pan. If oily, then off comes the pan in another spectacular weekend of fun.

I did not think of climbing under the Jeep and looking while it is running. Sounds fun, but I'll do that as well. I also have notice oil around the valve cover and oil filter area. I will add that to my list of leaks to repair.
 
Hit up the dealer for those oil filter o-rings...make sure you get the o-ring SET (they do sell only the main o-ring that goes between the block and the housing..but there are two smaller ones on the bolt as well). It'll run you about $3-4 and some change
 
I had the exact same problem with my RMS. I haven't built up the gumption to go in after it again just yet. I was trying to figure out what to do differently and hadn't found anything yet. Let me know what you find...I'm very interested to see how your 2nd attempt goes
 
I had the exact same problem with my RMS. I haven't built up the gumption to go in after it again just yet. I was trying to figure out what to do differently and hadn't found anything yet. Let me know what you find...I'm very interested to see how your 2nd attempt goes

After reading these responses, I'm now thinking the leak is not just from the RMS, but also coming from a different source, such as the oil filter adapter o-rings. I will need to park my butt under my Jeep with adequate light and locate the source. I have had much oil at the filter area so that may indeed the the culprit. Man, I hope so. More research is warranted before ripping off the oil pan.

Edit: Research shows that the oil filter adapter is the probable leak. Today started out as a suck fest following yesterday's RMS chore. I'm feeling good now and have plans to change the oil filter adapter o rings this weekend.
 
Last edited:
Another hint, grab some L-shaped Torx wrenches if you don't have any. Pep Boys has them (and they also have a Torx set that's basically rods that are 6 point all around that you can cut the T60 to length then throw a wrench on the back of with a breaker bar...this is what I did). Advance also sells the L-shaped wrenches for $12-13. Either one of those with a breaker bar and you should be able to get it off. It is a major PITA though....T60 in a very small spot...stupid Engineers!!!
 
Back
Top