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Disk Brake Question

JAS

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ann Arbor, MI
I have done the CV swap on an 87 XJ D44. The rotors are thicker than the old drums... This has moved the wheel farther out on the axle hub. This normally has a shoulder then a tapper. With the rotor being thicker it appears that this moves the wheel out on to the tapper.

The lug nut that you can see the wheel stud has the threads filled... There is not any to spare but they are full.

Is moving the wheel farther out an issue? What have the others done to address this?

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You need longer studs.
I ran into the same problem late on a Saturday night while installing the ZJ disc brakes. I found an old set of front hubs bearings that had longer studs.
Your local Napa should have the longer studs used on ZJ rear axles.
 
i used zj rear studs on my d44 cv disc swap ( I ran stocker wheels that were thick mounting then, now that i run thinner steelies, theyres plenty of bite)

ive also heard you can just use ones from the front, as theyre disc too, that would be ideal! either way you want 1/2-20 threads.
 
I do have the wheel studs out of the front unit bearing.

I found that the lug nut that is open is taller than the other ones when I cut the end off them.

I am more concerned about moving the wheel farther down the axle hub taper. Thus changing the wheel from a hub centric to stud centric... Normally the axle hub takes the force of bumps and stuff. The wheel studs only hold the wheel on the hub.
 
I just want to make sure that I do not shear all 5 studs off the first time I take this up to freeway speeds. I have 13 miles on the new gears and lockers all at < 30 MPH

I just want to know if it is a real problem or me just inventing problems because this project is getting nearly done.

Everybody else that I have seen has a center cap wheel and closed lug nuts.
 
I just want to make sure that I do not shear all 5 studs off the first time I take this up to freeway speeds. I have 13 miles on the new gears and lockers all at < 30 MPH

I just want to know if it is a real problem or me just inventing problems because this project is getting nearly done.

Everybody else that I have seen has a center cap wheel and closed lug nuts.
 
[FONT=arial, helvetica bold]The standard rule of the thumb for lug nuts is:
Every stud must be long enough to thread into the lug nut a length at least equal to the stud diameter.

The stud is 1/2" diameter so you should have a minimum of 1/2" and preferably 3/4" of thread engagement in the lug nut.
[/FONT]
 
OK... OK... I will track down even longer wheel studs...


but nobody seems concerned about the wheel moving out on to the taper of the hub.
 
OK... OK... I will track down even longer wheel studs...
but nobody seems concerned about the wheel moving out on to the taper of the hub.

Are you saying that the wheel does NOT sit flat on the axle flange?
Is there a gap between the rear of the wheel and the axle flange?
Or are you concerned that the wheel does not appear to be properly centered on the hub?

The wheel can be centered on either the hub or the studs.
You can check for wheel centering by jacking up a wheel and spinning it, looking for run-out.
 
I can slide a .009 feeler gauge in there... I also know that that is tapered so as the wheel moves out on the taper the bigger the gap is.
 
I've been running my Crager V5s like you describe for a month or so now, they are doing fine... when I looked it up online, I found a site or two saying something to the tune of "some aftermarket wheels are lug centric, you can get plastic rings to convert them to hub centric if needed" - the fact that the rings available are made of plastic convinced me that with acorn type lug nuts you don't really need it, you only need the hub centric conversion rings if you use lug bolts with flat shoulders like on some sports cars.

I wouldn't worry about it, just make sure you torque the lugs to spec and retorque them after driving around the block, 25 miles, and 100 miles - basically retorque them often until they remain at specified torque.
 
As far as I can tell, 'Hub Centric' is nothing more than a selling point that add nothing to the load bearing capabilites of the wheel. How much weight does those large trucks carry? How many tons does an 18 wheeler carry? How many of them are hub centric?
Having a good wheel rim and good tapered nuts that are properly tightened are all that is necessary.
FYE,... the Wire Mesh wheels on my XJ have a gap around the wheel center and the raised lipon the hub both front and rear.
 
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