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AW4 Transmission Problem

brianv

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Haledon NJ
Hey everyone,

I'm new to the jeep scene as I just bought my '01 XJ a few months ago. So far I've loved everything about the truck until last night when I ran into a transmission problem. The main thing that was happening was it would rev fairly high before shifting into gear, and when I was on a hill the jeep wouldn't even be in gear and I began to roll backwards. Also, when driving, it wouldn't shift from 1-2 and 2-3 until it go to between 3500-4000rpms. Now today when I go to drive it, it just revs to like 3000rpms and barely moves. If I press the gas long enough the jeep finally begins to move but makes it to like 15mph without shifting and still revving like a mad man. I reparked it and got out and smelled something like burnt clutch. Any ideas? I may end up just getting it towed to a jeep performance shop nearby and having them look at it, I'd just rather have a good idea what's wrong before I start paying someone else to diagnose it for me. Thanks.
 
you could have it rebuilt. however thats expensive. sounds like your front pump and/or valvebody crapped out. the problem with a used transmission is just that: you dont know how its been used or what kind of condition its in. a quality rebuild can be expensive but to me would be well worth the money.
 
Check the NAC classifieds subforum, a few people have em for sale under $200 right now - I think Pedro7 has one down near your area. I have two on hand but neither is in a condition I would consider ethical to sell to another NAXJA user - one does exactly what you describe (it's in my XJ) and the other one came from a junkyard and looks like it's about to do the same thing.

EDIT: you can get a rebuild kit for the AW-4 on ebay for like 160 bucks shipped, add in a filter/pan gasket and maybe some bands and a torque converter and you're good to go for under 500-700 bucks. You just have to learn to do the rebuild yourself.
 
96 will not fit an 01 unless you have a machine shop on hand, you'll need to mill out the boss for the input speed sensor on the casing and will have to swap out tailcones, output speed sensors, and sensor rotors. Look for a 98 or later for drop-in replacement.
 
97 is the same as 96 as far as the AW4 is concerned iirc, 98 was the year they added the input speed sensor and changed the output speed sensor.
 
Time to find another one then

Based on which diagnostic test or visual inspection method ?


...rather have a good idea what's wrong before I start paying someone else to diagnose it for me. Thanks.



Did you test the TPS ? Is the NSS functioning correctly ? Have you tested the TCU ? Have you Googled an AW-4 service manual and performed any of the diagnostic steps and tests from the troubleshooting section ?

When, and if, you determine there is a problem with the actual transmission, they are common as dirt, inexpensive and relatively simply to replace. An AW-4 rebuild will run you about $1400-1800, a good used AW-4 will cost about $200-400, but you should focus on determining the source of your problem before you even think about a replacement transmission.
 
Based on which diagnostic test or visual inspection method ?

Did you test the TPS ? Is the NSS functioning correctly ? Have you tested the TCU ? Have you Googled an AW-4 service manual and performed any of the diagnostic steps and tests from the troubleshooting section ?

When, and if, you determine there is a problem with the actual transmission, they are common as dirt, inexpensive and relatively simply to replace. An AW-4 rebuild will run you about $1400-1800, a good used AW-4 will cost about $200-400, but you should focus on determining the source of your problem before you even think about a replacement transmission.

He described a smoked transmission. When the fluid is fried and it doesn't move, changing the TPS or anything else electrical isn't going to fix it. There may be a contributing electrical issue, but it needs to have a different transmission installed and then shift quality checked on a test drive to confirm the electronics are ok.
 
Also don't forget to flush the holy hell out of your transmission cooler(s) when you change the transmission. You do *not* want the "new" transmission to get four to eight quarts of nasty blood from a dead transmission.
 
Yeah, that's for sure... had forgotten to mention that.

While on the subject - where does one go about buying a new torque converter, or how do I flush one out? The fluid in the used one I got with my new transmission is still transparent enough for me to see the bottom through the fluid with it sitting neck-up on the floor, but I really want to handle everything at once.
 
Yeah, that's for sure... had forgotten to mention that.

While on the subject - where does one go about buying a new torque converter, or how do I flush one out? The fluid in the used one I got with my new transmission is still transparent enough for me to see the bottom through the fluid with it sitting neck-up on the floor, but I really want to handle everything at once.

Was searching that once. I found a few re-builders online that had them for the AW4, but no new ones. I did not check any of the mopar online parts places for new.
 
Was searching that once. I found a few re-builders online that had them for the AW4, but no new ones. I did not check any of the mopar online parts places for new.
Looks like one of my sources of info on rebuilding the AW4 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=690054) says the guy has gotten new ones from Transtar, and rebuilts from Daaco. I think I'll give Transtar a go first, if they look too pricey I might try a Daaco.

</hijack>
 
some recent news: took a trans fluid check and got no reading on the dipstick. put two quarts in it and had a good reading. ran the car for about five minutes and fluid started pouring out from behind the driver side light (i'm assuming trans cooler?). So i'm hoping its just a leak from there, and i didn't do any worse damage to the trans. it's at a local shop right here and they're going to call me tomorrow about what they find. i'm at school in michigan right now and don't really have access to my own garage and tools so i can't do much diagnoses work on my own.
 
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