dash lights, taillights, parking lights out

hello all I have a 94 4.0 HO auto 4x4 2door. I have a taillight/dashlight/parking light issue... my headlights work, my dome light works but the taillights dashlights and parking lights dont. I replaced the headlight switch which did not fix the problem, none of my fuses are blown and they all test fine, i've done a search and all I find is info on ppl with this problem and blowing fuses, i'm at a loss as to where to look, I'm assuming its a ground issue since the fuses are fine but I'm not much when it comes to wiring (not a good idea being a jeep owner huh?) anyway... ground locations and any suggestions would be extremely helpful, thanks all

I have the same problem. They worked when I had no headlights due to a blown headlight switch but then I changed the switch out with a new one. Now the headlights, dome light and buzzer work but no "running" lights. I thought maybe it was a DOA switch from the parts store so I bought another - Same issue. BTW, emergency flashers, turn signals, brake lights and backup lights are all OK, also kick panel fuse #15 and all fuses in the power distribution center under the hood are fine. Did you manage to solve this yet? Thanks ...

So, have you gone to one of the lights that is not working and determined the missing element: power, ground, filament?

Once you determine what is missing, you follow that until you locate the open in the circuit (it doesn't sound like a short).

A**uming an aftermarket light switch--have you tried putting the switch "between" positions to see if the problem lights come on? There has been a rash of "bad" switches like that.

WOW! I just played around with my brand new headlight switch per your suggestion (Joe) and you are exactly correct. The parking lights will come on "in between" the "notches" in the headlight pull handle. Very touchy and probably not going to be a good solution for my son who drives this back and forth to college. What's the solution? This is the second switch I bought and they BOTH had the same issue. Where can you get a good switch? Thanks for all your help ...

blair.ensinger said:

WOW! I just played around with my brand new headlight switch per your suggestion (Joe) and you are exactly correct. The parking lights will come on "in between" the "notches" in the headlight pull handle. Very touchy and probably not going to be a good solution for my son who drives this back and forth to college. What's the solution? This is the second switch I bought and they BOTH had the same issue. Where can you get a good switch? Thanks for all your help ...

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Try the dealer or NAPA.

Good luck.

2000 XJ

So - I have the same issue and problem.... if you play with the plunger between parking lights and headlights, I can get the parking lights on, but not with the headlights....

I have bought 3 new switches, all with the same problem... is it possible to have 3 bad switches, from 3 different part stores?? Can anyone recommend a switch or where to get one? Or is this something else??

mrloveland said:

2000 XJ

So - I have the same issue and problem.... if you play with the plunger between parking lights and headlights, I can get the parking lights on, but not with the headlights....

I have bought 3 new switches, all with the same problem... is it possible to have 3 bad switches, from 3 different part stores?? Can anyone recommend a switch or where to get one? Or is this something else??

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Any of those 3 switches from the dealer or NAPA?

Went to NAPA and the parts guy showed me two versions of the headlight switch that both were for the 1992-1996 timespan (Jeep is a 95). If you look under the part itself, on the silver metal frame you will see three raised areas that correspond to the "notches" or indents felt when pulling the knob out for first parking lights only and then headlights and parking lights. The part that worked for me was the one that had three identical indents. The "other" part had a smaller indent in the middle between the first and last. Put the new switch in and everything works now (parking lights, headlights, instrument lighting and light buzzer). I also blew out the fuse #15 (15amp) under the driver side dash due to not removing the POS lead on the battery first. My advice is to do that to avoid this risk and any risk to damaging your new switch ...

blair.ensinger said:

Went to NAPA and the parts guy showed me two versions of the headlight switch that both were for the 1992-1996 timespan (Jeep is a 95). If you look under the part itself, on the silver metal frame you will see three raised areas that correspond to the "notches" or indents felt when pulling the knob out for first parking lights only and then headlights and parking lights. The part that worked for me was the one that had three identical indents. The "other" part had a smaller indent in the middle between the first and last. Put the new switch in and everything works now (parking lights, headlights, instrument lighting and light buzzer). I also blew out the fuse #15 (15amp) under the driver side dash due to not removing the POS lead on the battery first. My advice is to do that to avoid this risk and any risk to damaging your new switch ...

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Good information! Thanks for posting it. :cheers:

joe_peters said:

Any of those 3 switches from the dealer or NAPA?

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Nope - Checker, Auto Zone, and Car Quest.
Not my favorites, but close.

Based on these posts - guess I'll look at NAPA or Stealership.

Great information - Thanks guys.

mrloveland said:

Nope - Checker, Auto Zone, and Car Quest.
Not my favorites, but close.

Based on these posts - guess I'll look at NAPA or Stealership.

Great information - Thanks guys.

Click to expand...

Good luck.

Alright - So I went to NAPA today for a switch (Blair, good info). After reading this, I noticed that the one of the switches I had fit Blair's description well, all 3 dimples were the same size, compared to the OEM switch. So I saw a light at the end.

However, I went to NAPA, got their switch, it had the small middle dimple. Plugged it in, nothing. Couldn't even find the "inbetween" parking lights on that.

I'm at a loss. The dealership wants $100 for the switch, and NO RETURN. They also want $100 just to diagnose the issue. I really don't want to buy another switch ($100) only to find that is not the issue. My original OEM switch that I assumed was bad, behaves the same way that all these others are.

Anyone have any more thoughts or ideas?

I had another thought too... not sure what the ground really does on the switch. The switch acts the same wether or not that ground is attached. But I used a tester and have continuity when I touch the ground on the switch with another ground on the vehicle. So, I think the ground is still good.

FIXED !

But man, do I feel like a complete idiot....
So, I have checked fuses at least 3 times, all fuses but except for the tiny BUS fuses on the power distribution - I don't really know why .....? Dumb I guess
So fuse #17 on PD, is the 20a Headlight Switch, data link connector. It was blown. Swapped fuses, all is well.
I guess I need more than a Chilton's - maybe an FSM. There is no diagrams for the in cab fuses or PD block or owner's manual. After easy searching here, printed diagrams that are now in the Jeep.

I mean - wow, do I feel like a complete idiot. I guess that's a lesson learned.

Joe_Peters, thanks for the advice and ideas. Ends up my OEM switch is just fine. Is a good thread though, maybe will help some others out in the future. Live and learn I suppose.

Thanks again guys.

This post was helpful to me. Thanks to all who added information. Just in case this helps someone else here is some additional info that helped me...I replaced my headlight switch before finding this post and before checking the fuse(s) I mention later. Just like what was referred to above, with the new switch I was able to get the dash lights and parking lights to work by playing with the switch and balancing in an inbetween position. However by checking a fuse in the PD center under the hood (looking down from front of vehicle at the PD center it was the fuse just to the left of the bottom right mini fuse) headlamp switch and data connector fuse (blown 20amp replaced). Also the tail lamp fuse in the kick panel of the passenger compartment (#7) also blown and was a 20amp instead of the 10amp per diagram (replaced with proper size 10amp).The fuse panel diagrams I am referring to were found at the web address: www.lundhd.com/Tech_Articles/Electrical/1997_UP_Fuse_Identification.htm Everything works for now.

correction to the web address for fuse diagram
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Electrical/1997_UP_Fuse_Identification.htm

I really need to bump this thread to say THANK YOU. I've been dealing with what I thought was a bad headlight switch following the replacement of my AC system, and it turns out that the fuse in question (in the PDC, the 20A fuse immediately to the left of the bottom-right mini fuse) was indeed bad. It was also responsible for an immediate CEL any time the car was started.

So, lessons learned:

1) If you buy 4 switches from 4 places (Autozone, NAPA, CarQuest, AND Advance), and all 4 are bad... Chances are they're not. Ask me how I know.

2) Even with the fuse in question being blown, YOU MAY SEE THE CORNER MARKERS AND INTERIOR LIGHTING WORK BETWEEN NORMAL HEADLAMP SWITCH POSITIONS. Apparently, these "glitches" are occurring over a separate circuit.

3) When disconnecting/reconnecting the headlamp switch, disconnect your negative battery cable. I bought a few 20A fuses and tested my theory - every damn time you plug the switch into a hot electrical system, it blows that fuse. This is where my mistake was initially made - I was so eager to test the AC system that I waited til after power was applied to the system to reconnect the switch.

Hopefully someone else will find this useful. Adding a few keywords for Googleability:

headlight headlamp switch dash running parking lights out