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Doorless mod question...

B

Ben824

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Woodstock, GA
Ok so I have been researching how to do the doorless mod for a while now and actually helped a friend do it to his 91 a while back. My question is where can I get a good quality weather resistant electrical quick disconnect that won't empty my wallet? I know I can remove the kick panel and disconnect the factory harness in there but I don't want to have to remove the kick panel everytime and I want to be able to remove my doors in about 5 to 10 minutes like a wrangler. And I want to have a quick disconnect for the electrics right there at the door just like a JK. I know there are those military grade connectors for like $80 a pop but I am a college student so I am looking for something like $20 a piece. I have a 97 Country with all the bells and whistles from the factory so I need a connector for the drivers door that has atleast the full 12 pins. Also I would love to see any pictures of anyone's setup that have some electrical connectors.
 
try trailer connectors? i didnt think there was 12 wires in there but all i have is speakers
 
There are a lot on some... adding power mirrors adds 3 on a pre-97 or 4 on a 97+ (6 if with heated mirrors), adding locks adds a bajillion to the driver door and 2-3 on each other door iirc, adding windows adds another bajillion to the driver door and 2-3 on each other door.


Check out ehall's beater build thread (it's somewhere in the NAC forum) though I think he used the military style connectors.

If you're at an engineering school, see if the EE building's shop sells parts, if they do, they may have a large number of old military (amphenol or canon) connectors you can buy for cheap, I got a 20lb box of really huge ones for free in fact when mine dumped some old unwanted stock. Sadly they're about 3" in diameter and have 50+ pins in them, so they aren't much use for doing a doorless mod.
 
From the junkyard. Lots and lots of quick disconnect weatherproof connectors there for super cheap.
 
http://portal.fciconnect.com/portal/page/portal/FcicntPublic/Product_Type?appname=catDisplayByPath$entryPoint=adirect$categoryPath=Connection+type%2FConnectors+and+terminals+for+automotive+applications

There's a link to a site that sells all kinds of connectors and the contacts for them. You can look through there and look at the sealed wire to wire and they have from 2 wires all the way up to 128 wires.
 
dave92cherokee said:
There's a link to a site that sells all kinds of connectors and the contacts for them. You can look through there and look at the sealed wire to wire and they have from 2 wires all the way up to 128 wires.
Click to expand...
Wire gauge tends to be the limiter on high-density connectors. Yeah you can use ribbon cable if you want to use 20-ga wire, good luck rolling the windows up
 
FYI the hinges between your friends '91 and your '97 are a lot different, so if you plan on being able to remove your doors quickly, you'll have to do some custom engineering on that.

On my '99 I put my doors on wrangler hinges, and removed all the wiring except a single power and ground for the window.
 
ehall said:
Wire gauge tends to be the limiter on high-density connectors. Yeah you can use ribbon cable if you want to use 20-ga wire, good luck rolling the windows up
Click to expand...

Yeah... the window/lock buttons then become "light my wiring harness on fire" buttons. Make sure you relabel them with "self destruct" and "smoke screen" legends...
 
SC Rednek said:
FYI the hinges between your friends '91 and your '97 are a lot different, so if you plan on being able to remove your doors quickly, you'll have to do some custom engineering on that.
Click to expand...

not necessarily, it depends on what month batch the 97 came from. my 97 has the old style hinges
 
My 97 has the old style hinges thank god otherwise it would be a pain in the ass to do this mod with the newer style hinges.

ehall said:
I use the AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors almost everywhere and have been real happy with them. When I went doorless I used two of the 12-pin connectors for the drivers door, but later decided to use a milspec circular connector for that one. I still have the Mate-N-Lok on the others, and in several other places. Here's my doorless write-up
Click to expand...

I have seen your thread before and I like those connectors. How much did you pay total to do the front doors? Thats all I am gonna do for now then maybe do the back doors later on down the road. I want this to be a clean install like if it came from the factory that way. So I want to use some good quality connectors but not go broke doing this. Do those Mate-N-Lock connectors seal well against the elements? I have power windows, power locks, power and heated mirrors so I want to make sure they all still work after this and work all the time.
 
The connectors are water tight if you use the seals. Price was cheap. Here are the part numbers for the 12-pin connectors at newark.com.

46F2059 male/plug
46F2060 female/socket
87F5287 strain relief half (need 2 per)
48F6905 wire seal
48F6904 connection seal
90F5657 male pins (need doezons)
90F5658 female pins (need dozens)
 
ehall said:
The connectors are water tight if you use the seals. Price was cheap. Here are the part numbers for the 12-pin connectors at newark.com.

46F2059 male/plug
46F2060 female/socket
87F5287 strain relief half (need 2 per)
48F6905 wire seal
48F6904 connection seal
90F5657 male pins (need doezons)
90F5658 female pins (need dozens)
Click to expand...

How many or each of those things will i need to do just the front doors on my jeep?
 
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