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Oil Pan Gasket

You'll use a dab of RTV where the timing cover meets the block on either side and where the rear main bearing cap meets the block on either side after it's installed and tight (if you did the rear main seal also otherwise just add the RTV). As a help you can spray on some spray trim adhesive to the gasket/block and stick the gasket on the block. This will hold it in place while you put the pan back on.
 
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I went the overkill route and put RTV all the way around, top and bottom. Also I used a fel-pro gasket that sounds like what you have, blue, metal core and was identical to the one I replaced other than the color. In this situation I don't think using allot of RTV is really going to hurt anything one way or the other, the main reason I went so heavy on it was because the OEM gasket only had it on the corners and the damn thing was leaking all the way around so I thought I would remedy that situation with copious amounts of silicone.
 
No, no, no,
Excessive amounts of silicon is the Devil.
It will come off on the inside fall to the sump and block the oil pump screan killing oil pressure and killing your engine.
Use it sparingly.
 
No, no, no,
Excessive amounts of silicon is the Devil.
It will come off on the inside fall to the sump and block the oil pump screan killing oil pressure and killing your engine.
Use it sparingly.

well, considering how tough it was to get the original RTV off the pan and block I'm not to worried about it but I will take your advice in to consideration in the future, it is a valid point.
 
I used the RTV on the block, put the gasket on and hand tightened the bolts on to hold it up. I'm letting it set over night and will finish the assembly tomorrow night. RN jr your more then welcome to join us tomorrow, my house after 5.
 
mostly, to put the pan back we removed the draglink and it slid right in there, no problemo!!!
 
I have been having some problems getting a couple of the bolts back in. Mainly the two hiding behind the cats,....
 
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