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HELP! jeep died and no restart! GOTA GET TO WORK 2 MORO!

alfredsxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
portsmouth Va
ok so i was driving home from work on 264, the trans starting slipping, mind you im doing 70 with cruse on. the rpms start cycling up and down like its surging.... the rpms shoot up but the jeep slows down... then the jeep dies and i come to a rolling stop on the side of the road. i pop the hood and the jeep starts smoking... its leaking fluid from the bell housing it was borwnish as if it was motor oil. but it didnt smell like oil it smellt like trans fluid. I let it sit for a whyle and tryed to restart it, to my dismay it just turned over. i have no fuel pressure. did the tourq conveter go bad? or did a relay go?
 
If the trans fluid is burnt that's one problem and if it won't start that's another. It's possible the fluid got into a connector or something took out the carnk sensor.
 
Sounds like your torque converter or clutches are gone. Same thing happens to me occasionally (more and more often now, I'm replacing the transmission sometime this week assuming I find time, limping it to work till then) - the oil coming out of the bell housing is transmission fluid, just really dirty burnt transmission fluid. You probably have a blown front pump seal, it's the seal that seats around the neck of the torque converter. I have one sitting on my desk here waiting to go in - NAPA part number 1-5235, it costs less than ten dollars. If you want to rebuild the transmission (replace clutches etc) you can probably get the kit on ebay for $155 or so still, I saw a Pirate thread on doing this recently.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AW4-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a8e93a700 is the rebuild kit the guy used to rebuild his clutches (just looked through my browsing history)
You probably also want to install a new pan gasket and filter while you are working on it, beware that the NAPA computer system currently thinks all XJs have the 3sp Chrysler transmission used with the I4/V6 till the early 80s and 3sp auto I4s afterwards, ask for an ATP B112 kit (or buy it on RockAuto, cheaper that way) and you will be set to go.

Or buy a whole new AW4 from a low mileage/working junker, what year is yours? You probably won't spend more than a few hundred bucks on it if you don't mind dropping and replacing it yourself.
 
i just checked for spark and there isnt any, nore is there any fuel pressure. so that leads me to think that thers has to be some safty cut off or someting like that. the jeep only has 120k on it, its a 98 xj. could it possible be a rear main seal leak?
 
Sounds like your torque converter or clutches are gone. Same thing happens to me occasionally (more and more often now, I'm replacing the transmission sometime this week assuming I find time, limping it to work till then) - the oil coming out of the bell housing is transmission fluid, just really dirty burnt transmission fluid. You probably have a blown front pump seal, it's the seal that seats around the neck of the torque converter. I have one sitting on my desk here waiting to go in - NAPA part number 1-5235, it costs less than ten dollars. If you want to rebuild the transmission (replace clutches etc) you can probably get the kit on ebay for $155 or so still, I saw a Pirate thread on doing this recently.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AW4-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a8e93a700 is the rebuild kit the guy used to rebuild his clutches (just looked through my browsing history)
You probably also want to install a new pan gasket and filter while you are working on it, beware that the NAPA computer system currently thinks all XJs have the 3sp Chrysler transmission used with the I4/V6 till the early 80s and 3sp auto I4s afterwards, ask for an ATP B112 kit (or buy it on RockAuto, cheaper that way) and you will be set to go.

Or buy a whole new AW4 from a low mileage/working junker, what year is yours? You probably won't spend more than a few hundred bucks on it if you don't mind dropping and replacing it yourself.

thanks for the links!
 
If the trans fluid is burnt that's one problem and if it won't start that's another. It's possible the fluid got into a connector or something took out the carnk sensor.

i checked the crank sensor, yeah i would think that its 2 seperate problems but they all came together at one time.
 
no fuel pressure makes me think you have an electrical issue or a fuse blown somewhere - or maybe you ran out of gas at the same time?

No spark makes me think some of the leaking transmission fluid from the front pump seal probably screwed up your CPS.

Not really sure on any of this, but that's how I see it...
 
no fuel pressure makes me think you have an electrical issue or a fuse blown somewhere - or maybe you ran out of gas at the same time?

No spark makes me think some of the leaking transmission fluid from the front pump seal probably screwed up your CPS.

Not really sure on any of this, but that's how I see it...

i have a 3/4 tank of gas, what sensor or relay controlls the spark? i have good fuses and relays to the fuel pump. it has to be a master cut off or something like that cuz it all ender together. all at one time...
 
i checked the crank sensor, yeah i would think that its 2 seperate problems but they all came together at one time.

Press the schrader valve on the fuel rail and have someone turn the key to the run position. Does any fuel squirt out? Now unplug the CPS and cycle the key again. Do you have fuel now?

Year/engine would help.
 
I'm sure your CPS is shot, or is fowled bt whatever happened in your bellhousing. Fix your trans., pull your CPS when the bellhousings out and see whats going on.
 
Press the schrader valve on the fuel rail and have someone turn the key to the run position. Does any fuel squirt out? Now unplug the CPS and cycle the key again. Do you have fuel now?

Year/engine would help.

thers sno fuel coming out of the valve on the rail. its a 98xj, 4.0 give me 5 mins, ill go try that.
 
That makes sense. With the CPS disconnected or broken it won't turn on the ignition system at all. Try plugging it back in and see if it was just corrosion on the connector maybe?
 
That makes sense. With the CPS disconnected or broken it won't turn on the ignition system at all. Try plugging it back in and see if it was just corrosion on the connector maybe?
nah the connector was clean, the sensor its self was clean when i removed it from the bell housing. is there any one sensor or relay that controlls the fuel and spark together? or is there a automatic safty cut off?
 
Wifes 98 had same problem last fall--without the fluid leakage--turned out to be the NSS,neutral safety switch.
Have you had any problems with the back-up lights ? Try to start in N instead of P .

Wayne
 
yeah the back up lights take a few seconds to come on, but now i got the fuel pump to come on but its no sending fuel to the rail. ill check the switch.
 
That makes sense. With the CPS disconnected or broken it won't turn on the ignition system at all. Try plugging it back in and see if it was just corrosion on the connector maybe?

No it doesn't because he was checking the fuel pump operation. If he was checking for spark then yes it would, sorry. If the CPS is disconnected and he doesn't get a squirt of fuel when cycling the key the fuel pump isn't working plain and simple. I'm not saying it's the pump because he has other issues and he would have to verify power to the pump which I'm sure he doesn't have.

You need to pull and visually inspect all the fuses just to make sure something didn't pop before going deeper in to the electrical system.

yeah the back up lights take a few seconds to come on, but now i got the fuel pump to come on but its no sending fuel to the rail. ill check the switch.

And you have gas in the tank? You can disconnect it underneath and see there. If something got too hot you could have damaged a fuel line (plastic) but if you have no spark it's something else.
 
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No it doesn't because he was checking the fuel pump operation. If he was checking for spark then yes it would, sorry. If the CPS is disconnected and he doesn't get a squirt of fuel when cycling the key the fuel pump isn't working plain and simple. I'm not saying it's the pump because he has other issues and he would have to verify power to the pump which I'm sure he doesn't have.

You need to pull and visually inspect all the fuses just to make sure something didn't pop before going deeper in to the electrical system.



And you have gas in the tank? You can disconnect it underneath and see there. If something got too hot you could have damaged a fuel line (plastic) but if you have no spark it's something else.


it has power to the fuel pump... it cuts on you can here gas splashing around.. easy fix.. just drop the tank and find out why.. now im still not getting spark. power is going to the computer, but no power to the coil.
 
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