Engine studders on tight corners

So I've been driving my new rig around for a couple months now, and of course I'm finding all the weird corks a $650 rig is bound to have. Right now I'm concerned about what happens on tight corners, here's the deal...

Details:
- '88 Renix, 5.5" lift no sways hooked up, long arms, good bilsteins up front BAD shocks rear, etc.
- Fuel gauge reads empty when 7 gallons are left, I fill it up when it gets to empty or my tack reads ~230mile (normally means I've gotten to 5-7 gallons left). I'm guessing the bubble has some fuel in it.
- I have no clue when the fuel filter was changed, or if the CAT is good. I have access to a good fuel filter and CAT (off the old rig) but I'm avoiding such changes if not necessary in the current weather (no garage).
- Recent oil change, t-case drain/fluid change (twice), SYE, spark plugs, air filter. Problem still persist AFTER all of this. Tranny fluid is good.
- About half the time the engine will run 1-2grand on the RPMs when starting then slowly go back to 800-1000RPMs.
- Recent power issues fixed with additional 5-90 alternator positive/negative as well as ANOTHER new 100amp alternator.

Problem:
I can take corners at easy speeds and it will be no problem, I can gas all the way through and not notice any difference so long as the body roll is limited. Once I get a lot of body roll (say freeway exit 180degrees at 30-40mph) and stay on the gas I'll notice it's almost like my engine shuts off, studders, or lose's fuel. This commonly happens on a turn for my hill (tight 90degrees up a steep hill at 15-20mph) and I've found the RPMs drop and I'll have to let off the gas, and then hit the gas and I'll be ok. It seems as if it doesn't matter when I hit the gas, I can only get moving again when the body roll is reduced. This is the same occurrence on any other corner with lots of body roll, no matter the speed, no matter which direction (although it's commonly when going right).

Any ideas? My thoughts are fuel is getting cut off, and maybe the pump is bad...but I'm not sure.

~Scott

Full/half/low tank of fuel OR absolutely each and every time, regardless of the fuel level in the tank?

If it is all the time regardless of the fuel level, you may have a rotted fuel hose from the pump and float assembly that opens up too much under the cornering forces. If it only happens with 1/4 tank or less then it is pretty much normal, and you should keep more fuel in the tank as each time the pump gets starved it isn't being lubricated.

It's possible someone was in the tank and didn't bother to properly seat the pump module in the locator hole at the bottom of the tank or the tank has been bashed in dislodging something.

I had the same problem. Today I took out the pump and found that the strainer was sitting in the bottom of the tank.. The strainer actually holds fuel in it so that if you take a hard corner you still have fuel in the strainer. Anyways I put in a new strainer and now all is good. Make sure though when you put the pump back in it seats in the little cup. Its kinda tricky but if your gentle it will slide in.

End result, no more studdering around corners and more power. Strainer is only $5 and easy to get to.

Picture of were it needs to sit.



BTW Mine was only cutting out when the gauge read 1/4 or less.

You know I seem to recall trying to do it with a full tank and it not working...now that you guys mention it. It's hard to say, normally when it happens I'm too busy trying to look at the harder "in the moment" stuff (like rpms, engine temps, etc.) and I keep overlooking the fuel level. I'll check it next time.

The tank it's self is in good shape. I do think a pump could be the issue. I have a pump in my old rig ('89) that I'd swapped in, but it was out of a newer rig so the fuel gauge read opposite (when it was empty it read full) anyone know what wire I need to re-splice to fix this while I'm swapping the pump?

~Scott

You know, from the old dealership days, I remember that some 87 to 89 Cherokees with a 4.0 had a problem with the injector wiring harness grounding out where it comes up from the rear of the engine and runs down toward the two rearmost injectors. Happened with engine movement and caused intermittent stalling. Might be worth a quick look.

Muddy Beast said:

I have a pump in my old rig ('89) that I'd swapped in, but it was out of a newer rig so the fuel gauge read opposite (when it was empty it read full) anyone know what wire I need to re-splice to fix this while I'm swapping the pump?

~Scott

Click to expand...

Nobody has found a fix for this to my knowledge.