...check the distributor unless you didn't touch it...
Nope, I replaced an axle seal, backed it out of the garage, and turned it off. Two hours later, no start. Nothing else was touched.
I would also check MAP sensor... you want a good vac line and 5 volts with key on at the plug.
I checked, and it is hooked up. Will check voltage tomorrow.
Try unplugging the TPS and try to start it
Never heard of that. I'll try it, but why?
check compression. A frequently flooded engine will have fuel in the crankcase...reducing compression.
She's so old n tired, I shudder to think what the compression was, anyway!
Check the voltage at the battery...
I cranked it about dead last week, then the cold weather finished it off. I put in a new one this morning. No change.
Crossed my mind, but I think it'd run (poorly) with one or even two stuck injectors / flooded cylinders.
Verify your exact fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail with a gauge.
I don't have a gauge, but I can get one. But would too much or not enough pressure cause it to flood before starting? :dunno:
Strong, blue, snapping spark at the plug eliminates the crank sensor as a cause.
Cool, thanks. It was a nice stong spark, so one less thing.
The camshaft position sensor (inside the distributor) can be tested with a meter.
Not just a volt meter? I'd guess it'd be more a timing thing.
Get those plugs out of there and replace or dry them out before trying again. Don't want to sabatoge your troubleshooting efforts with fouled spark plugs.
I think that should probably be my first step. I unplugged the fuel pump and cranked it a bit, assuming it would blow itself out. That's probably not good enough...
Thanks, guys, I'll post up when I know or try more!
Robert
