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Power Steering whine / cut-out

cbird01

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tucson, AZ
I started having a problem with my power steering as soon as it got cold this year. I am in cold climate. When starting in the morning, I noticed a whine and intermitant cut out of power steering (jerky, not an all out cut out) After warming up it was fine. I have never replaced PS fluid, just fill up.

I went on vacation for 3 weeks and when I came back it was really whiny on start up and intermittent cut out was regular. I had someone drive it home from 200 miles away and someone also borrowed it for a commute while I was gone. This time it did not go away for a whole trip to the grocery store 10 miles away. I checked the fluid level at the grocery and it looked like a red milkshake. Lots of air.

How should I proceed? Thanks

Craig
98 stock 4.0L 4x4 142K
 
check serpentine belt tension, should be very tight.

next replace the fluid and refill. check hoses and connections for leaks.
 
Sounds like the pump. Try to isolate the noise if it's coming from the pump, replace it.

quite possible it is just a bad pump, but a functioning pump can make just as much noise

check serpentine belt tension, should be very tight.

next replace the fluid and refill. check hoses and connections for leaks.

yes 89 is right, do this first. if concerned about air in the system after replacing the fluid, open the PS cap and turn the wheel to full lock both ways for a few seconds each
 
I have found many posts with various directions for flush/fill PS. Can some one direct me to the definitive post or step by step directions - it has been a while since my wrenching years, but finances and friends stocked garage are dictating my return to the wrench.

Any tips on checking belt tightness and maybe a link to directions for tightening if needed? I just have not wrenched much on my Jeep, so need step by step. Thanks!
 
If it's the original PS pump, it's long over due for replacement.

Mine on my '98 did the same whine sound... kinda like a turbo wind up. I replaced it with one from Napa, but that one gave me grief as it was nearly impossible to turn the steering wheel. The second one worked out fine.

It's a fairly simple replacement process of removing parts, which the first time should only take you about an hour or so. By my second install, I was able to do it in 20 minutes.

Be sure to rent a pulley puller first, as you will have to swap you original pulley to your new PS pump. Get a puller that is meant for that purpose, or you will definately fubar your pulley. You can rent one for about $7. Just bring your PS pump to the rental place, and they'll fit you up.

To install the pulley, you just use the supplied bolt and washer that comes with your PS pump to in effect "press" the pulley on. Bring the pulley flush with the shaft, and you're good to go...
 
I have replaced 3 in the last 6 months and am about to do another one. Watch out for res tank out port nipple. Some of them are "glued" into place and will fail when you try to remove the hose. As it is at the bottom of the res, it will dump all the fluid on the ground or hopefully bucket. And do spend the extra to get a tank. It is worth not having to worry about a seal between the tank and the PS pump.

Flushing is problematic as there is a lot of fluid in the steering box. I think of it as challening as an auto tranny. You could place a large bottle, like what is used for brake bleeding, in place of the cap to feed fresh PS fluid. Then disconnect the return hose from the steering box to empty into bucket. Turn the engine on until flushed.

Be warned, it may flow fast.

The PS pump replacements were all due to a sealed bearing failure. There is a seal between the bearing and the fluid. It is the bearing next to the pulley.

Should you choose to use a pulley removal tool, be careful. If there is not proper and full engagement with the coller and it is phenolic, it will break. Use a braker bar or an air wrench. Check the pulley for hairline cracks before re using it. They are cheap at about $15.
 
I misread the fluid level and needed to add fluid. It stopped the constant whining and cutting out on turns, but still seems sluggish on turns. Do you still think it is a bad pump or should I try and bleed the system? There are still air bubbles and when I open the cap you hear a whoosh of air.
 
I misread the fluid level and needed to add fluid. It stopped the constant whining and cutting out on turns, but still seems sluggish on turns. Do you still think it is a bad pump or should I try and bleed the system? There are still air bubbles and when I open the cap you hear a whoosh of air.

You need to get the air out of the system. That frothy fluid is death to the pump.

Suction all the fluid out of the reservoir (turkey baster, just don't put it back in the kitchen afterward) and put in new clean fluid. Start the engine and SLOWLY move the steering wheel left and right, from lock to lock. Top off the fluid and monitor.
 
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