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Swapping a 1990 Radiator into a 1999

LynchMob

NAXJA Forum User
1999 XJ, I6, AW4, 231, AC, Tranny cooler...

My 1999's rad is starting to leak a bit, I have given it a thorough look but I've been thinking about swapping the HD rad that I pulled off my 1990 XJ before I retired it. It's the OEM HD type but with the steel tanks and 3row(?). It was hard to find...I turned down a half dozen other plastic tank ones before I finally found it. I would guess it has less than 10K miles on it.

Is the only difference the fact that the open system has the pressure cap opening? What do you figure a shop charge to modify my old rad?

I did try searching but only came across full "closed to open system" swap threads.
 
1999 XJ, I6, AW4, 231, AC, Tranny cooler...

My 1999's rad is starting to leak a bit, I have given it a thorough look but I've been thinking about swapping the HD rad that I pulled off my 1990 XJ before I retired it. It's the OEM HD type but with the steel tanks and 3row(?). It was hard to find...I turned down a half dozen other plastic tank ones before I finally found it. I would guess it has less than 10K miles on it.

Is the only difference the fact that the open system has the pressure cap opening? What do you figure a shop charge to modify my old rad?

I did try searching but only came across full "closed to open system" swap threads.


You can buy a splice that goes inline a radiator hose that has a rad cap on the top. something to look into

http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CBwQrQQwAg
 
You can also go to a radiator shop and have them add the 91-up neck since it's a metal radiator.
 
Or add a pressure bottle from the salvage yard.
 
THanks for the suggestions. I found a couple threads that discuss splicing in a "t" and cap in the upper hose also. Sounds cheap and easy, but if I do this do I have to also remove the current resevoir and add a pressure bottle? It seems like this is what is being suggested but I don't get why...How does simply moving the pressure cap from the rad to the hose change anything.
 
THanks for the suggestions. I found a couple threads that discuss splicing in a "t" and cap in the upper hose also. Sounds cheap and easy, but if I do this do I have to also remove the current resevoir and add a pressure bottle? It seems like this is what is being suggested but I don't get why...How does simply moving the pressure cap from the rad to the hose change anything.

If you install one of these in the upper radiator hose: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-63730/

and then run a recovery hose to your current recovery bottle, then NO, you don't need a pressure bottle with the 1990 radiator.
 
I'm assuming you don't have a radiator shop by you that you could take it to and have them add the filler neck as mentioned above. It's really the easiest thing to do.
 
Did I miss something?

Why don't you just get a new radiator. I just got a brand spankin' new radiator to convert my 88 MJ to an open system for $134 with free shipping. Got here today, overnight. It needed a new radiator anyway.

Swapping in a closed system radiator, installing a T, futzing with a pressure bottle, having a shop modify the old rad seems like a helluva lotta hassle just to utilize a beloved 20 year old radiator. :dunno:

My humble opinion would be to bite the bullet and do it up to snuff.
 
WinterBeater....Yep...the "T"s have recovery spouts that run off them.

joe peters....Thanks, I think splicing in a "T" for $20 or so is gonna be my best bet.

MJR...Nope, no rad shop for at least 60miles or so. That would be my preferred route but assuming it costs even $50-60 bucks I'd rather not the hassle.

ParadiseXJ...like I said, the closed rad has less than 10k. I bought it new shortly before taking my 1990 off the road and just pulled it last summer. I would hate to waste a good heavy duty two row metal rad, particularly since it was so difficult to source here in Canada. Besides $120 in my pocket and one less part in the yard to piss off the Misses are both good things :)

Thanks for the replies!

I was able to get out today and could not find any trace of a leak, nor have I lost any coolant in the past week. I had lost about a quart the week previous. I did notice my second battery, where the stock air box was, had been pushing against the rad cap...I wonder if maybe it tweaked the cap and allowed fluid out. I repositioned the battery a bit to provide more clearance and will cross my fingers for now.
 
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