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I just replaced the factory steel wheels with factory alloys on my 99.

argetni

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NJ
and in the back the wheel studs are a bit short I thought. Did the 1999 XJs with factory alloys come with longer studs?

I still got at least 9 turns on lug nut and I torqued them to 115 just to be sure.

Anyone else notice this?

Also the hubs were real rusty and I had to use the lugs to crank the alloy wheels down over them.
 
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Clean the rust off the middle of the flange, as stock wheels, steel or alloy, like to be centered on the hub. Also, with sandpaper, gently clean around the mounting surfaces on the back of the wheel. Alloys like to get fuzzy here, and sometimes will not sit flush on the disc or drum surface the way they should. You should not depend upon the nuts to pull the wheel on, as they will loosen as the weight of the car will seat them. Also, check the torque spec for the lugnuts. IIRC it's 75 lbs/ft., or thereabouts. Too tight can warp or crack the wheel.
 
Clean the rust off the middle of the flange, as stock wheels, steel or alloy, like to be centered on the hub. Also, with sandpaper, gently clean around the mounting surfaces on the back of the wheel. Alloys like to get fuzzy here, and sometimes will not sit flush on the disc or drum surface the way they should. You should not depend upon the nuts to pull the wheel on, as they will loosen as the weight of the car will seat them. Also, check the torque spec for the lugnuts. IIRC it's 75 lbs/ft., or thereabouts. Too tight can warp or crack the wheel.


FSM said 80-115ft/lbs. I am going to remove the wheels and sand off some of that rust when it gets a bit warmer. I did the swap yesterday and it was 20*, my hands are still sore.
 
I suggest you use anti-sieze and go for the low end of the torque range as the A-S acts as a lubricant and reduces the torque spec.

Yes all drum studs are shorter than disk studs. Don't know why.
 
I have thought about doing just that for the rear. I had a couple of 1/4" wheel spacers made. There just isn't enough thread engagement in the rear with them. Fortunatly the lug nuts failed before the studs.
 
Clean the rust off the middle of the flange, as stock wheels, steel or alloy, like to be centered on the hub.

Jeep wheels are not hub centric like a european car (MINI, VW) but are lug centric like most american vehicles. While I would clean the rust up and reseat the wheels, the lugnuts are what centers the wheel on the hub, not the hole in the middle of the wheel.
 
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I believe it is a combination. A lot of wheels are stuck on Jeeps due to the rust between the alignment ring on the hub and the wheel hole. I agree that it would be difficult to overcome the champfer of the lug nuts, however. The 1/4" spacer eliminates the use of the flange and forces the nuts to align the wheel.
 
I believe it is a combination. A lot of wheels are stuck on Jeeps due to the rust between the alignment ring on the hub and the wheel hole. I agree that it would be difficult to overcome the champfer of the lug nuts, however. The 1/4" spacer eliminates the use of the flange and forces the nuts to align the wheel.

The lugnuts always align the wheel to the studs. There is no weight transfer between the hub and the hole in the middle of the wheel.

Hub centric wheels have bolts, not lugnuts. The wheels on a hub centric installation ride on the hub and the hole in the middle of the wheel. You can mount the wheel and then all the bolts do is hold it onto the surface of the hub.

There isn't a combination of the two.
 
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