PosiLock or Pass Side Axle?

My sons '88 XJ (4.0L, NP231) doesn't want to engage into 4-wheel all the time (especially in cold weather) and I suspect the vacuum disconnect axle. I have an '89 with the NP242 without the vacuum axle disco and I have no problems. I have searched and haven't found the answer I'm looking for.

I want to know what the options are to get rid of the vacuum disco. Can it be easily modified with a solid axle shaft on the passenger side, or is the PosiLock really the easiest answer. Maybe his problems are easy to diagnose and fix to leave the system as-is?

Which is cheaper (his ride was only $800 new....so I'm not willing to invest lots of $$ into it)? Can I do either at home in garage with common tools, jack stands, etc.? (I am fairly adept...did my lift and lots of other mods...am not afraid of some 3-rated tasks..on a scale of 5).

Thanks in advance for the advice I know I'll receive here.

try this http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/

Thanks for the reply. I know about cable shifts...my main question is, and remains...is it easier, and more reliable, to replace the split passenger shaft with a solid shaft? What is entailed...is it feasible.

Thanks again....more folks welcome to chime in...

Unless you have custom shafts made, it isn't feasable.

The best way to go is just to buy the whole axle assembly. You can find them for about $200. Complete. Paying more and somebody is hosing you.

There is a seal in the diff, and also a seal in the disco box. You would have to do some fancy stuff, and include a bearing. I've been through it all before and the cheapest way is just to find another axle and swap it in.

Or use a cable.

Thanks KarlVP....want I wanted to know....about the same cost to custom make the axle..or to install the PosiLock. Thinking I might try to find the real problem first...then tackle the problem with axle replacement or ?? later.

Thanks

It is usually a vacum leak, do his defrosters work OK ? does the air flow change when accelerating and declerating ? There is a vac hose that goes under the battery to the vac resevoir cannister behind the passenger side IN the bumper. They tend to get battery splooge on them and get eaten away. Thats where I would start.
We had a 89YJ a couple of years ago, I finally went to the parts store, bought an assortment of lines and started one vacumn line at a time and replaced every single one. Each time I did one the idle would change and get better, guess due to age they were getting micro cracks in them and effecting the whole system. Only then did the weber carb just start to work right but we never did get it 100%.

Pop the CAD off, pull the three circlips off the shaft holding the shift fork and slide it out of the housing. Slide the locking collar over on the axleshafts to lock them together, then shim the shift fork over with washers so it lines up with the collar, and reinstall the circlips. Put the CAD back on the axle (refill the housing with 5 oz of gear oil), cap off the vac lines and fittings, and call it done.

Jeff

Did this, used a hose clamp to lock the shift fork over and installed the housing upside down back on the axle.

Two years running and no problems.

I thought that would burn up the front output on the t-case. I guess I was wrong.

It does the same thing as having a solid axle in there instead of a disconnect axle collar. Solid axle turns all the time just like a connected split axle does when its connected