I can not even get a test light to light up from tthe horn wire.
The horns can be accessed by pulling back the wheel well liner at the front bumper end caps.
Pull the connector off the horn. Inspect it and the spade on the horn for corrosion. If corroded use a bit of penetrating oil spayed into a small container then using a small stiff bristle brush, like an acid brush, scrub the spade and pin cavity of the connector until the corrosion is gone, then spray both down with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner.
The horn is chassis grounded through the body of the horn. Like themauler said, make sure the horn is grounded properly. Reaching up through the wheel well liner, use a 1/2" open end, or box end, wrench to remove the horn attachment nut (you may have to soak the nut with penetrating oil for awhile to free up the nut). Remove the horn. Verify the contact surfaces between the horn and its mount bracket are free from corrosion. Then remount.
You can check the horn for battery voltage by using a voltmeter ot test lamp. Probe the connector pin cavity (+) and place the (-) probe on the horn mount bracket nut or horn mount stud. Have a helper activate the horn. Check for strong battery voltage. If the voltage is very low, suspect high resistance in the circuit, which will need to be found and corrected. Suspect the horn relay, connector C2 in the JB, or a splice in the wiring harness.
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Just because you hear the horn relay clicking doesn't mean the relay is transferring power accross its power contacts. THe clicking may only be the relay control coil pulling in.
Fuse #21 (15 Amp) in the Junction Block is the power fuse for both horns. Pull the fuse and check it with an Ohmeter or just simply replace it. Power leaves F21 to the horns throgh connector C2 on the JB.
Here's the JB. You can see #21 and the horn relay. If you need to gain full access to the JB, pic follows.