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POWR-LOK Use It or Lose it??

R

RenoXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Reno, NV
Ok, so I somehow in a trade came accross this D30 powr lok differential 3.73+ its dated 1985

Now, I have a power trax in the front with stock geard (3.55)
and I need to get a different case because of the carrier break.

WHats up with powr lok? they any good?
this one as it sits on my bench feels like a locker. The 2 sides dont turn independently just by messing with it on my bench. Any input?
TIA
 
Dont recall off hand what a "power-lok" is,but the carrier break doesnt matter if all you want to do is swap the locker to your new gear set/carrier.
 
RCP Phx said:
Dont recall off hand what a "power-lok" is,but the carrier break doesnt matter if all you want to do is swap the locker to your new gear set/carrier.
Click to expand...
Its a funky L/S and I dont think my lockrite will fit inside the split case of the powr lok
 
Are you sure were talking about a D-30?
 
Power Lok is a clutch limited slip, and yes they came in D30's. Lot's of CJ's ran Power Lok's in their D30's in the old days. :)


Forget it.
 
I put one in my d30 with 4.56 gears. It works pretty well for a limited slip and good street handling in rain and snow. The clutches are much stiffer and you can add preload to the clutches with spacers to make them tighter. Or if it's already too tight for you can add a little more friction modifier to help it slip.
 
moto_ridah said:
I put one in my d30 with 4.56 gears. It works pretty well for a limited slip and good street handling in rain and snow. The clutches are much stiffer and you can add preload to the clutches with spacers to make them tighter. Or if it's already too tight for you can add a little more friction modifier to help it slip.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the responses, guys.
 
Power Lock was the limited slip to have back in the day before everyone decided to run lockers. They are more than twice as strong as a stock carrier having four spider gears instead of two. They use friction discs to limit slip. There is one beveled disc and 5 flat ones. We used to use them like lockers by beefing them up. If you run two beveled discs, it will have enough friction to change a tire without touching the wheel. If you use three beveled discs, it will chirp the tires in corners but does not achieve true lockup. These are great mudding differentials. I used to run one stock one in my front D$$ and a beefed up[ one in the rear D44 on my CJ and it worked quite well. You do have to run oil additives with them though.
 
Well, look at it this way:
The trac-loc is the right side of the break for your new gears. You can throw it in as is or put a new clutch pack kit in it, and you're set. If you don't like it, you can swap in a new full case locker, or open case with the tru-trac at a later date without re-setting the pinion. Setting the pinion depth is 80% of the work setting up the axle.
 
tbburg said:
Well, look at it this way:
The trac-loc is the right side of the break for your new gears. You can throw it in as is or put a new clutch pack kit in it, and you're set. If you don't like it, you can swap in a new full case locker, or open case with the tru-trac at a later date without re-setting the pinion. Setting the pinion depth is 80% of the work setting up the axle.
Click to expand...
thats What I was thinking.. thanks for that
 
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