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thermostat question need help asap

kdub41

NAXJA Forum User
Location
hemet
so i took off the thermostat housing and that there was no thermostat, but i wanted to make sure that this is where a thermostat goes? does it go in between the block and the thermostat housing???? here are some pics

this is the thermostat housing i think lol
IMG00125-20091227-1951.jpg

and this is where that connects to the head
IMG00124-20091227-1950.jpg
 
yes that is where it goes. When you put it in, put the pointed side in the front and the spring side in the head. Do not forget to bleed the system after you are all done.
 
Yup, scrape off the old gasket on both sides, and dry both surfaces.

Apply some permatex #2 to the housing. Put the T-Stat on that side in the indented area, pointy side in, then put the gasket on top of that. Make sure the t-stat stays in the indent.

Put the bolts in part way so they hold the gasket (though the Parmatex should be doing a great job of that already).

Apply Permatex to the head side, and assemble.

Ron
 
how do you bleed the system?

Park it level. Open the radiator cap and start the engine. Pour a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water to fill the radiator. Rev the engine as it warms up and the thermostat opens. Top off the coolant and continue to rev some more.

Lather, rinse, repeat until the coolant level in the radiator no longer goes down.
 
If you have a cooling system with a radiator cap ( you didn't post the year!), top off the radiator. Then I just squeeze the top hose with the radiator cap off,and adding more fluid. I leave the cap off while the T-stat opens, and then I burp the upper hose some more. It doesn't take too long and the air is out of the system. Then I top off the radiator and put the cap on.

Ron
 
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I did my thermostat(in my 97) recently and didn't bleed anything. I just filled it and drove it a little bit and topped off the over flow bottle. Did that twice and now my over flow stays at the full line...

I figure if the cooling system is working properly it should allow the air to escape and suck in coolant from the over flow bottle.
 
Then you have a regular cooling system. Early models had some Renault based cooling system with a coolant bottle up by the passenger fender and air burping points all over the cooling system to get out the air.

The burping I outlined in my post works well, I've not had trapped air in the system after completing repairs, and what little does remain, works out in time though the overflow bottle.

Edit: The overflow bottle should be at the lower of the two lines when cold, that way it has room to dump coolant in and not spill.

Ron
 
The Renix systems are closed and the best way to "burp" them is to park on an incline with the engine end up hill. this allows the air to move to the front of the head. Having the bleader hole in the t-stat is critical and should be placed in the 12:00 position. If there isn't one on the t-stat, make one with a 1/8 hole dril bit. Renix systems don't have a temp sensor in the t-stat housing.
 
By the looks of the pics, you have a lot of cleaning to do to prepare for the thermostat. Clean surfaces are essential to a no-leak install.

Use a premium 195 degree stat. I like the oem stat from Jeep and Stant makes a fine premium stat as well. Stay away from el-cheapo.

On the 2001, the cooling system generally is self-burping. With a few up down cooling cycles, it normally takes care of itself.

Good time to consider a complete flush/fill while you're at it. 50-50 mix of coolant to distilled water for the final mixture. Confirm strength with a hydrometer when you're done. Don't guess. Anti freeze testers can be purchased at any parts store for a couple of bucks.
 
Yup, scrape off the old gasket on both sides, and dry both surfaces.

Apply some permatex #2 to the housing. Put the T-Stat on that side in the indented area, pointy side in, then put the gasket on top of that. Make sure the t-stat stays in the indent.

Put the bolts in part way so they hold the gasket (though the Parmatex should be doing a great job of that already).

Apply Permatex to the head side, and assemble.

Ron

just to be clear-- "pointy side in" means in toward the housing-- this will actually be facing out once you install the housing on the head (spring toward the head, bridge toward the housing)
 
ok so do you put the t-stat in first then the gasket? and also i got a premium 160 t-stat and there is no bleeder hole
 
thermostat into water outlet (therm housing) and then gasket.

I will caution you that the 160* therm. will keep you in open loop longer than you are going to need and it will increase fuel consumption a bunch (although you're used to it if you didn't have a therm. to begin with)
 
As Shorty says, the 160 tstat will keep you in rich mode. This will waste gas, wash oil off the cylinder walls, and contaminate your oil. Poor heat also and maybe ruin your cat. converter. You need the 195 tstat.
 
ok so do you put the t-stat in first then the gasket? and also i got a premium 160 t-stat and there is no bleeder hole

Do not install this stat! 160 is way too low. Your engine is designed to run most efficiently with a 195 degree stat. Take your stat back and get the 195.
 
ok so do you put the t-stat in first then the gasket? and also i got a premium 160 t-stat and there is no bleeder hole

With everybody telling you to the factory spec 195 degree thermostat, why did you get a 160 degree one?
 
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