tps sensor keeps crappin out- help!

my d/d is a 2001 4.0 cherokee w/ 135000 mi. tps code came up a couple of weeks ago so i replaced it with a new napa unit. that lasted about 5 days, then the same code came back while driving and same limp home, barely running crap happened so i replaced it AGAIN... and about a week later, AGAIN. this is the third one ive put in this morning.

I checked the wiring visually as best i could, ground straps seem to be good, dielectric greased the plug to keep out moisture and im sure the new tps will last a week and take a shit.

what do you guys think could be killing my tps? voltage spike? grounds? bad karma? aliens? please help yall

The problem with OBDI/OBDII is that the codes AREN'T telling you what part to replace.

The codes are telling you that the half-wit PCM isn't getting what it expects from sensors, or it can't communicate with systems.

You need to test, and determine where the fault is. Digital and analog multimeters are basic tools for anyone working on automobiles.

Get to it.

I agree, you should have a good digital volt meter. With that being said if you want to check the TPS you should have the ignition key in the run position and engine off. Then use your multimeter set to volts, find a good ground and ground the black lead. With the red lead use T-pins to back probe back probe each of the sensor wires one at a time. It should have 3 wires, a signal, ground and source voltage. You should have about 4.95 volts on one wire, .5 to about .8 volts on the signal wire and 0 to .1 on the ground. If source voltage is out of spec or the ground wire has high resistance then the information thecomputer gets is faulty. Remember the computer doesn't have any reasoning, garbage in and garbage out is what happends with the information it gets. The other thing you can do is back probe the ground wire on the TPS (while its still connected to the sensor AND the key must be in the run postion, engine off) then find the signal wire and connect your read test lead. At this point you need to slowly move the throttle body back and fourth with your hand keeping an eye on the volts. Closed throttle it should be about .5 to .8 volts and as you open the throttle body it should slowly climb to about 4.5 to 4.95 volts. If the voltage ever falls or glitches then you have a TPS problem. If source voltage isn't 4.95 or 5 volts or you don't have a good ground the the information going to the computer is going to be inaccurate. One last thing, set your TPS voltage to about .7 volts closed throttle then disconnect your battery for 10 minutes. Then when you reconnect your battery this new position at .7 volts will be remebered as closed throttle by the PCM. If the computer doesn't relearn the new postion then it only knows the old postion before you changed the sensor. Remeber the PCM has no reasoning, it only know values and calculates off them.

Being that you are on the third TPS, it is very possible that all of them are good and your problem lies elsewhere. You could confirm this by performing the test procedure noted above. If the voltage sweep is smooth, keep looking for root cause.

Renix TPS units (87-90) are adjustable but yours (01) is not.

Along with the sensor, you need to ensure that the connector and all associated wiring is in good shape. I know you checked, but I'd verify all wiring again. Flush all of the grease out of the connector and visually examine the contacts inside of the connector to ensure there is not a problem there.

Post the exact code number(s) here for best results.

I wouldn't use a digital volt meter to test the TPS for continuous continuity. Digital meters sample inputs, and can easily "miss" a bad spot. Use an analog meter to test for bad spots in the sensor. Use the DVM to check for initial and reference voltage.

yeah thats true too, we should all just have graphing multi meters haha