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Oil Filter Adapter Question (PLEASE HELP)

cj11

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Easton Pa.
Has any one ever broke one of these bolts or adapters.

I have a 97 Xj and thought I had a rear main seal leak turns out whan I was replacing My NSS i noticed That there was not much oil on the trans inspection cover and was pretty dry up by the seal so started looking around. Found that there was fresh oil leaking from the oil filter adapter and running down the pan and blowing allover the place.

Picked up the o-ring set and t-60 torx. I have tried to break the nut free and can not get it to turntried with a open end wrench and it just bent open, then a small 1/4 inch rachet snapped it, big a$$ adjustable would not budge do not want to break this does not look like it would be an easy fix.

Sorry for rambling on just dont want to screw this up.:doh:
 
No problem here--gotta love the Renix (hex, not torx).

Some have taken the T-60 bit and welded it in a box-end wrench, then used a mutha-big cheater bar.
 
You lucky hex havin b*$****

I put a big pc of pipe and snapped the rachet

just do not want to break anything looks like that would not be a good thing. Want to know how easy it is to snap that bolt in the center
 
I don't remember seeing a single post of anyone having broke the bolt--but lots of same-as-you stories on what a Bhatch the torx bolts are.

It is my understanding that Sasquatch worked on the engine assembly line for the 4.0, and that he specialized in OFA attachment. :D
 
mines a 92 and I quess I lucked out my filter sets upright and has a 5/8 bolt head I just but a box wench on it from under neath. And used a nother one for leavage came right loose.
 
Every time I'm about ready to replace my filter adapter o-rings another thread like this comes up and I get unmotivated again... I already have the T-60, the o-rings, and the quart of oil sitting in the garage. Just need to take a swing at it one of these days. Usually the fact that mine's a '99 California model with zero rust helps me out in regards to the whole stuck bolt thing, but somehow in this situation I don't think that will give me an advantage at all...
 
I changed mine two weeks ago my RMS is leaking I knew about it but one day I seen a lot of oil on the ground checked and it was comming from the adaptor I had a bottom end gasket set I got for the RMS it had the o rings in it took me about 45 min to change it and that was cleaning up the block and the adaptor too.
 
I will get a pc of pipe to go over the wrench at work and try to at least break it free then fix it later in the week just wanted to be sure it was not going to break.
 
Put the BOX end of two wrenches on the T-60 bit, 180* apart from each other. Get the whole assembly in place so you can pull on one while pushing on the other - it makes a huge difference in loosening that bolt. Just plan the move because when it breaks free you're VERY likely to lose some skin if you don't watch yourself.

http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/filter.html

Jim
www.yuccaman.com
 
Piece of cake - here's how I did mine:

* Procure a T60 bit - one with the Torx bit piece pressed into the drive adapter, like this:

go.pl

* Take a center punch and your multi-tool (big hammer), and pound out the bit from the drive adapter.

*Put a 12mm box-end wrench on the end of the bit, run some tape around it to keep it from sliding off.

*Stick it on the adapter bolt.

*Bust out your cheater bar (mine's 3 ft), place over end of wrench, crank. Done.

Not only is this quick and easy, but now you have that bit sitting around for the next time you need it or to help out a buddy. No need to weld or go through all of this other nonsense to create a special tool.
 
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One thing you may do just in case go to a dealer and get one with 5/8 nut on the end. Like my 92 then next time it will be alot easer to get loose.You never know when the oring may go bad again or you have to replace the motor mount on that side.
 
is this a comman issue. my 99 is leakin oil from the adapter now the same way. were is this o ring located so i can get it fixed
 
there is three of them one big one in the adaptor and two on the bolt once you take it apart verry easey to see them.
 
White - read the link I posted earlier to describe the issue and see how to fix it. I apologize that it's not one of the better writeups I've done, but it should explain the problem and the fix well enough that you can take care of the problem.

Jim
www.yuccaman.com
 
Well I am an a**hole just could not wait and dropped it off at the mechanic this morning by my job thought how much could it cost i had the O-rings ! hour labor at most. NO! bastard soaked me for $90.00 and he told me should only be under an hour said he could not get the bolt free. He has done these before because he knew what was involved.

Well the only positive is the oil leak is gone and I will start doing my own repairs again and stop being so goddamn lazy sometimes it is just easier being stupid.

Thanks for the help anyway
 
90.00 dam I need to open a shop back up LOL.Shame you wornt close would have done it for 45.00 total and I would have been smilling
 
Thanks for the extra kick in the balls! :bawl:

Will not make the same mistake again.:rolleyes:

You are learning! Way too much money for the job, IMHO, but I don't have a flat-rate manual handy. If it was a flat-rate shop.

PS--NAXJA, where an extra kick in the balls is always expected, but it will be delivered with a SMILE!! :D :D :D :D
 
Well I am an a**hole just could not wait and dropped it off at the mechanic this morning by my job thought how much could it cost i had the O-rings ! hour labor at most. NO! bastard soaked me for $90.00 and he told me should only be under an hour said he could not get the bolt free. He has done these before because he knew what was involved.

Well the only positive is the oil leak is gone and I will start doing my own repairs again and stop being so goddamn lazy sometimes it is just easier being stupid.

Thanks for the help anyway

90's not terrible.

Your time is worth some money.
 
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