242 sticking in part time

My friend's 99 seems to be sticking in part time. I changed the transfer case fluid and replaced with new dexron III. If in 2wd, you can go into part time then full and even low with no probs. The problem is that when you go back to 2wd it seems to stick in part time.

From there (2wd position, stuck part time), if you go into the full time position it STILL stays in part time b/c it bucks on the pavement. The only way I could get it to shift is on gravel, dirt... and at one point going down the road I think I "heard" it drop out because there was a clunk then it was in 2wd.

I've searched and I'm basically asking for some reassurance or tips that I didn't find in the other threads....is it possible that it just needs "broken in" a little since it hasn't been used in at least 6 months? I'm not sure how much the PO used 4wd, but it has 125k on it, and he did a lot of highway driving.

Also if someone could post a link or let me know how to adjust the linkage I'd appreciate it. -If that could be a problem that is... Thanks for any help!

edit: auto, 99, 242, 125k, 4.0

Are all his tires the same make & size?
having slightly different size tires (Front or rear) will make it bind up on pavement & difficult to shift the T/C, On gravel it will work fine because of the slippage.

garr said:

Are all his tires the same make & size?
having slightly different size tires (Front or rear) will make it bind up on pavement & difficult to shift the T/C, On gravel it will work fine because of the slippage.

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Sorry, I forgot to post that... yeah all 4 same and prob within a couple pounds of pressure of eachother. I do know that the rear tires are a *little* unevenly worn, they were just rotatated from the front for that reason (since the fronts were worn a little unevenly).

It doesn't shift perfectly on the gravel/dirt, it's just that it's easier/actually shifts *more*.

Mine started doing that just recently too. I find it's now easier to drop the tranny into neutral and roll very slowly when shifting. It's winter here now, and also my tires are not all the same size, so it seems to get bound up pretty easily

i have always shifted mine while rolling 5-10mph.. never have problems.. sometimes it takes about 5 seconds for the lights to change, but never more!

nw-xj-scott said:

i have always shifted mine while rolling 5-10mph.. never have problems.. sometimes it takes about 5 seconds for the lights to change, but never more!

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Lights change right off the bat, but it doesnt' actually shift. Weirdest thing to me is that if you go to 2wd and realize it's still in, then try to go back to FULL time, it somehow stays in part time! I'll prob crawl under it and try to adjust the linkage tomorrow or the next day.

EDIT: any quick tips on adjusting the linkage? I've seen sources say to have it in 4L before loosening the trunion bolt. Does it matter if it's in 2wd or 4lo? I'd think either end would be fine, just not somewhere inbetween.

Nevermind, found a thread here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=976227&highlight=linkage

I had the same symptoms you are describing with my np242. I found out that to get it to disengage from 4wd and back into 2wd, it prefers you to come to a complete stop, put it into reverse and back up 15-25 feet and turning the wheel back and forth to allow the vicious coupler to disengage inside the transfer case.

Hope this helps.

JD'S-XJ said:

I had the same symptoms you are describing with my np242. I found out that to get it to disengage from 4wd and back into 2wd, it prefers you to come to a complete stop, put it into reverse and back up 15-25 feet and turning the wheel back and forth to allow the vicious coupler to disengage inside the transfer case.

Hope this helps.

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Thanks, that makes sense and I'll definitely give it a try! I've tried backing it up to disengage but didnt' think about working the wheels back and forth.

JD'S-XJ said:

I had the same symptoms you are describing with my np242. I found out that to get it to disengage from 4wd and back into 2wd, it prefers you to come to a complete stop, put it into reverse and back up 15-25 feet and turning the wheel back and forth to allow the vicious coupler to disengage inside the transfer case.

Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

yup, i did the same, except i slammed it back in 2wd after that and gunned it. popped right back into 2wheel. GL man!

vincepru said:

yup, i did the same, except i slammed it back in 2wd after that and gunned it. popped right back into 2wheel. GL man!

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So are you guys putting it into 2wd *before* you start backing up, or after you have backed up doing the wheel turn thing?

I generally slow down to 1-5 mph going forward put the transmission into nuetral and slide the tcase into 2wd mode (because im usually running 4low). Then as i slowly come to a stop i pop it into reverse and back up the 15-25 ft giving it gas and cutting the wheel back and forth.

yeap sometime just shifting to reverse then back to drive, or turning the wheel, or accelerate then releasing the gaz pedal while pushing the 4x4 lever foward, the point here is to create some loose on the gears so they can disengage. I would recommand being easy doing those manoeuvers, the gears can come close the end of their spines so you don't want to put too much HP on it. my xj do the same souldn't be a big problem if youre easy on it

Thanks guys! Surely between adjusting the linkage,lubing the linkage and trying out some of these maneuvers we can get it on track and find a "trick" that works every time.

Hi Guys,
I need some URGENT help.... i'm lying in about 4 inches of snow and I have the trunion block bolt loosened, but the rod will not loosen up. I can't tell if the block itself is metal or rubber/plastic and I don't want to apply heat if it may melt.

I sprayed a ton of pb blaster on it, and it just won't budge. I can barely get a hammer on the end, and have try hitting it some, but it's pretty seized up. Any tricks or ideas??

also, once i tighten the nut back up, is there a certain torque spec it's supposed to be or just "tight" thanks for any help!

I Wouldn't hit it with a hammer, a little heat wouldn't hurt it though. Just be careful to clean off all of that flammable PB blaster before you apply heat. Another thing to be careful about is to not melt the bushings. Also, you may try to remove the link and take it into the house\garage and work at it there. I'll try to find a torque spec, but I usually tighten it to "snug"

removing the assembly will be more problematic because of all the little plastic bushings

cover it with PB, let it set for a little while, then put a small wire brush on it