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Installing 8.8. Do I install pumpkin off center?

djlarroc

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver, CO
So I got all the perches and old mounts off.

The 8.8 is under the jeep and I was taking measurements last night. Seems if I install the pumpkin center, my DS is moved too much to the driver's side. If I push the axle over to driver, my DS is now straight, but I have about 2.5" of clearance from the driver's leaf. But the pass side leaf is almost flush to the tire.

I've read numerous write ups. Some say they used spacers on both ends, some say they have vibes from the DS being crooked to the driver's side. I'm thinking that if I push the axle to the driver's side, and do a 1" spacer on the pass side wheel only, my DS will be straight, and I should be golden?

Any ideas?
 
Install it so the pumpkin is offset, equal space between leaf perches and backing plates. I have had zero vibes from running the driveshaft ant an angle to the passenger side. On full stuff my driveshaft just makes contact with the muffler, nothing serious.
 
Ok thanks. So you mean offset like it is from factory right? The pumpkin is offset from one tube, but install the pumpkin in the center of the jeep?

I measured that way 1st and measured about 1.25" per side. But the DS was crooked. I had read on a few places about vibes, but it was on a wrangler.
 
Put one 1.5 inch spacer on the passenger side to move the pumpkin over, then move your spring perches over half of that distance so the pumpkin actually becomes centered.

-Alex
 
I am morally opposed to spacers. Otherwise I would :D
 
Nope, I haven't installed it yet - still working on getting all the stuff I need bought, shipped, fabbed up, etc. I'll be installing it centered, dealing with the minor vibrations (I can't even hear the vibes from my horribly angled 8.25, 3.5" lift, and 96+ TC output over my MTs) and using rims with less backspacing.
 
Ahhhh... I now see future mods haha.

Well, by looking at the axle, it seems if you push it more towards the driver's side, it also gets the DS away from that dangling muffler.
 
My muffler's already beat to hell, so I'm just gonna let it self clearance :dunno: That's the NAC way!

All I'm really worried about is the driveshaft length. Since it has a similar pinion length as a d35, and I have an 8.25 and lift, I suspect I may come up short, so it's off to the Dana CV shaft catalog (google for J321-CV if you need a copy off their site) to find something with 1310 joints and the appropriate length.
 
Oh crap. So then mine might be short as well. I had the 8.25. I got the spicer u joint adapter, but I don't know if that's going to be enough.
 
Well, you can always drive it in 4hi "FWD" mode with no rear driveshaft till you get yours lengthened or figure out what to rip one out of at the JY. That's my backup plan.
 
I swapped a d35 out and the 8.8 in with adapter no driveshaft length issues. And no vibe running the pumpkin offcentered to the right. I can see a yj or tj with short rear shafts.

I also run a 8.8 in my b2200 offcentered as well without issues
 
off center shouldnt result in any more vibrations. i would just make the wheels centered and let the pumpkin fall where it may. its not that far off center to make the DS not work anymore
 
Put one 1.5 inch spacer on the passenger side to move the pumpkin over, then move your spring perches over half of that distance so the pumpkin actually becomes centered.

-Alex


I really can't believe I just read that.


Install it offset and point the pinion at the tc output. Let the offset angle work the ujpint needle bearings for you. If you install it centered you'll have a hell of a time gettin your calipers off one side as it will put the springs right up against them and you wont be able to get one of the bolts out. I have ever so slight interference as it is with the pumpkin setup offset and pinion angle set correctly.
 
I really can't believe I just read that.


Install it offset and point the pinion at the tc output. Let the offset angle work the ujpint needle bearings for you. If you install it centered you'll have a hell of a time gettin your calipers off one side as it will put the springs right up against them and you wont be able to get one of the bolts out. I have ever so slight interference as it is with the pumpkin setup offset and pinion angle set correctly.

Your doing it wrong then.

The 8.8 is 1.5 inches narrower then a XJ rear axle (or so I was told), so take one 1.5 inch spacer and add it to the passenger side. Then divide 1.5 in half, I know this part is tricky so pay attention, you will get 0.75 or 3/4 of an inch. So what you do next is move both spring perches over 3/4 of an inch to the passenger side, this centers the pinion. My friends XJ is running this way and has no problem interfering with the brakes.

-Alex
 
Your doing it wrong then.

The 8.8 is 1.5 inches narrower then a XJ rear axle (or so I was told), so take one 1.5 inch spacer and add it to the passenger side. Then divide 1.5 in half, I know this part is tricky so pay attention, you will get 0.75 or 3/4 of an inch. So what you do next is move both spring perches over 3/4 of an inch to the passenger side, this centers the pinion. My friends XJ is running this way and has no problem interfering with the brakes.

-Alex


I've swapped this axle umpteen times. If you start out equal distance on each side from the spring perch to the disk and then shift it one way (pay attention this is where simple math gets difficult) then you will be moving the spring perch that much closer to the disk brake. Now if the axle is rotated up to point at the tc this puts one of the caliper bolts online with the leaf spring and will interfere with its removal if you have to do a brake job. Having the axle shifted off square would damn near make it impossible to remove that bolt on that side even with just a wrench because youd lose 3/4 inch of room to back out that bolt.

As it sits i have a 4.5 lift with the axle pumpkin offset like it should be so the axle is square under the jeep. I have exact/y the same distance from leaf to disk on both sides. With the axle pointed at the tc the bolt on both sides has to be removed with a ratcheting wrench because a socket and wrench won't allow enough room to completly remove the bolts, hence the interference.

Have you actually even done this or just thought you had a brilliant idea but really have no clue?

As well, the idea to run one spacer on the axle to make up for lack of proper installation is about the most hill-jack thing ive read.
 
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