Water Pump bolt hole striped

Yeah water pump is dumping water... pulled it off and it had some kind of blue silicone and an old cork gasket. Get a good gasket and orange rtv put all back together and working my way around tightening ever thing down a little at a time. Go to snug the bottom bolt down for the last time and it just keep turning.... So the block is striped out... Looking for some input on best way to fix this. Should I retap to the same size, go up a size, or what?

Strongest repair would be a thread insert, like Heli-Coil.

You can drill and tap to the next size up. What are you going to do the next time?

I can repair with a thread insert with out drilling it out right? Any one know the stock size bolt off the top of there head?

RollTider said:

I can repair with a thread insert with out drilling it out right? Any one know the stock size bolt off the top of there head?

Click to expand...

You drill it out to a specified size, and then install the Heli-Coil or thread insert.

Don't have the bolt size, length, thread--and I believe there are two different lengths.

Also, you might want to get new stainless steel bolts and use anti-seize on them.

Not quite, Joe.

Drill to a specified size, tap using the thread insert tap, then install the insert. The insert matches the specialized tap in diameter, threads per inch, and in thread profile so there's near perfect engagement with the outer material.

ChiXJeff said:

Not quite, Joe.

Drill to a specified size, tap using the thread insert tap, then install the insert. The insert matches the specialized tap in diameter, threads per inch, and in thread profile so there's near perfect engagement with the outer material.

Click to expand...

You are right, skipped the tap part.

I've never done it, but I have seen it done on utube. doesn't seem like there much to it....
I don't think I can buy helicoil brand here, but fastenal does sale thread repair stuff.

Helicoil is the probably the most well known helical spring thread repair kit manufacturer.

Interesting... Fastenal refers to them as a "wire insert." Guess that makes sense, the inserts can be made from a wire of the proper profile, made on a spring machine.

I have one holding the power steering pump on the intake manifold. It's been there for several years.

Got the bolt fixed... Still leaking alot

RollTider said:

Got the bolt fixed... Still leaking alot

Click to expand...

Weep hole/shaft of the water pump, hose/clamps, or the pump/block mating surface?

If you have to replace the pump, please don't waste your time (and engine) on a reman.

I belive you're from zr2usa.com?? haha

where its leaking from??

Yeah Brett, it's me Matt lol. You told me about this site remember
Cant realy tell. Looked it all over it's just running out the bottom from behide the water pump.

Heli-Coil is simply a trademark, they're commonly called "screw thread inserts" (which can also cover bushings) or "diamond wire inserts" (from the profile of the wire used.) Other brands include Re-Coil and Coil-Sert.

There are also threaded bushings which can come in handy - they're easier, because you simply drill and tap one or two sizes up and insert a solid bushing (I'd probably use that for a sealing thread.) However, you do need to make sure there's material available for the larger thread size, there isn't always.

I've been able to get a good seal with diamond wire inserts if I install the thing with a layer of RTV on the outside, and then make sure to coat the screw with RTV before it goes in (which I generally do anyhow. RTV or PTFE paste. I'm just cranky that way...)

A "basic" kit usually contains a specified size of diamond wire insert, along with the installation tool/mandrel and the drill and tap of the proper size. There's actually a formula for figuring the STI (Screw Thread Insert) tap size, I have it in my notes from machine shop somewhere. However, the taps are special and not generally available without the inserts.

The bolt hole wasn't striped, I just missed the fact that 3 of the bolts were slightly different sizes. I had the shortest bolt were the 2ed longest bolt should go and it just pulled the very end of the treads out. It's all better now. Fel pro gasket, very small bead of RTV, and a brand new water pump.

With the rare exceptions of those thermostat housings with "O" rings I have always done the t/stat and housing in the same manner:

Clean the mating surfaces and if necessary smooth them down. Insert the t/stat in the housing with a little bit of Permatex non-hardening to hold the t/stat in. a thin layer of Permatex non-hardening on the t/stat housing, then a gasket, and then install it. Never lost one yet, and when it has to be changed again the engine is essentially clean and you can wire wheel the housing clean. Makes for a quick and clean job.