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Renix off idle stumble.

RNMedic

RNMedic

NAXJA Member #659
Location
Dayton, Ohio
Hey and yes I have searched. All the grounds are good, TPS and IAC checked and replaced, IAT as well, new plugs, wires and cap. When you come to a stop it will drop to around 400 rpm and sometimes stall. Same when going from reverse to drive. Also coming up to a stop light if you let off the gas, light changes get on the gas, misfires 3-4 times then gets going. Is the distributor a possibility?seems like I go through a dist cap every 4-5 months posts look worn, but this doesn't fix it.
Or possibly MAP sensor??

88 --- 210,000 miles lift and other junk
 
Replaced the TPS, did you adjust it?

Could very well be fuel pressure, get a gauge and test it.
 
yup. done both, new fuel pump and tank 9 months ago, also EGR solenoid done too
 
Ok, when you checked or replaced the IAC, did you clean the throttle body?
 
Well, I my next best suggestion would be to check pins 23/24 of the ECU and that their signals are reaching the IAC. Those pins are the retract/extend command to the IAC.

Also, when was the last time you renewed the system grounds?
 
RNMedic said:
grounds in the spring, how do I check the ECU? isn't it behind the dash??
Click to expand...

Under the instrument panel, between the steering column and the heater-a/c housing. It is attached with three screws to a bracket.
 
pull and block off the EGR valve to determine if it's allowing some recirculation of gasses at idle. It can give you exactly what you describe. The valve, itself can become gunked up and not seat correctly even when the solenoid tells it to.
 
My 87 was always on the verge of an off-idle stumble and very sensitive to wiring connections (including the bulkhead connector, present on some 88's as well) and carbon in the throttle body, among other things. I also found that when adjusting the TPS it was worse if the output voltage was a bit high, so if you err, do it on the low side.
 
Maybe make sure your serp. belt is good and tight. Make sure to use the Krikit II (~$12 - $15 @ NAPA).

I was experiencing the same symptoms that you described. It also got really cold here (-15* or so) for a few days, and the belt started squealing a bit. Once it warmed up a little, I tightened the belt.

The squealing belt and the stumbling/stalling both quit. I hadn't associated the belt tension with the stumbling, but I've done no other work and the problem is gone.

Edit: Mine's an '89 4.0, AW4 btw
 
RNMedic said:
cleaned the egr valve 6 months ago., but will give itr a try
Click to expand...

Did you check the EGR transducer, black plastic disc next to the EGR valve? Seems I remember those would plug up and allow the EGR valve to open before the correct amount of exhaust backpressure was present.

Also, does the stalling occur before or after the engine reaches normal temp? How about the off idle stumble?
 
thanks, it is at all temps, not as bad cold less than 30 deg outside temp, but still there, I am going to change the egr with one of a spare manifold I have.
 
My 88 does that on occassion. I found the problem to be a worn wire on the engine block near the #5 and #6 injectors. The wire bundle right there would fall out of the clip and short against the engine. Check that area, make sure the wires aren't worn, and then put them in the clip. It took me almost a year to figure it out....i thought the cps was going out...
 
so you figure this out yet? mine does it too every now and then. its to the point now that when driving it will sputter and shut off now... have you checked that you distributor is on correctly at TDC?
 
Shorty said:
pull and block off the EGR valve to determine if it's allowing some recirculation of gasses at idle. It can give you exactly what you describe. The valve, itself can become gunked up and not seat correctly even when the solenoid tells it to.
Click to expand...

I saw this exact situation on an older Renix that I owned. I'd give that EGR a serious once over.

Let us know what you find.
 
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