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Dana 35 Powertrax Locker problem.

19864cyl

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alabama
I always thought I had a spool, so I finally got around to taking the diff cover off and we think I have a powertrax Lock Right locker. The problem is that the tires stay locked all the time.

In this pic (blurry i know) you can see that the pins are broken and turned sideways.

DSC02306.JPG


In oic you can see the other side and how the pins are good.
DSC02324.JPG


Another of the good side. Also notice that toward the bottom there is an indention where there is supposed to be a screw the holds the pin in. There wasnt one there. There waasnt even any threads in the hole.
DSC02326.JPG


another pic of the bad side.
DSC02329.JPG


Can yall please tell me how to fix this?
 
First you need to dis-assemble it and check the dowel pins holes for permanent damage.If there isnt any damage,you need to buy a rebuild kit.There are no screws that holds the pins in,the springs do that.
 
First you need to dis-assemble it and check the dowel pins holes for permanent damage.If there isnt any damage,you need to buy a rebuild kit.There are no screws that holds the pins in,the springs do that.

The screw im talking about is the one that holds in the big main pin in. the on that goes through the center of the unit. Look at the third pick. There is an indention(has orange paint close to it) that has a hole it it that should have a screw in it.
 
Here is a better pick of where the screw should be. There is some sort of pin or something in there.

DSC02334.JPG

thats a roll pin. you punch it out from the ring gear side. its a tight squeeze to get a punch in there. much easier to remove the carrier to punch the roll pin out.
 
a roll pin, not a screw, as said, holds the center pin in

and the busted locker pin is what's keeping it from unlocking.

Looking at the pics, you may be able to get away with a rebuild kit with new pins & springs, but since 1 pin is fubar, and one of the others seems to be sitting sideways somewhat, you may find the pin holes are damaged too much to use without the same thing happening again.
 
thanks for the replys i thought it might be a roll pin but was unable to find any information concerning the early model dana 35s, and all i could find were later models saying there was a retaining bolt that went through the pinion shaft instead of a roll pin but apparentley they changed from a roll pin to a bolt later on i guess.

in order to knock out the roll pin i guess i will take the whole carrier out is there any kind of alignment issues i should worry about? and also i beleave the earlier dana 35s like this one were non c clips and i dont have to worry about that right?
 
We got the dowel pin out, now we cant get the locker to compress because the broken pins are blocking the plates from compressing. Any ideas? Also where is a good place to get a rebuild kit?
 
If you can next time resize your pictures. :roll: :D The early D35 has a non c-clip axle. You pull the tire, pull the brake drum, and their are 4 bolts that you remove that hold the axles in place. Their is a hole on teh flange to stick a socke through. Once both axle are out the carrier will come put after you pull the bearing cap bolts. Make sure they all go back like they are. Mark them top if you have to. That is what I do. Knock the pin out with a punch 3/16th maybe. Then you should be able to get the locker out. Pin and spring kits can be gotten a lot of places. I usually just call powertrax. HTH. Any questions just ask.
 
im now stuck trying to remove the pin that has broken and lodged itself between the two drivers of the locker. any ideas on how to spread the locker drivers out anymore to get the broken pieces out?
 
If you're working on a D35........you're doing it wrong.:D
 
If you're working on a D35........you're doing it wrong.:D

:puke: I am thinking of buying a ZJ Mike and it has.............wait for it............... a WELDED D35. Know anybody with an 8.8 laying around? :D
 
When I had a 35c with a broken locker I needed to remove the carrier. There are shims on each side, keep them seperate as in left side parts and right side parts. The caps and bolts for the carrier are also side, as well as top and bottom, specific. Mark the top bolts with white out as "L" and "R" so you don't mix them up. There should be a slot on each side of the cross shaft(big pin holding the locker in the carrier). With the slot facing you use a small magnet or needlenose plier to pull the c-clip out. Once both are out the shaft can be pulled out a few inches in order to remove the carrier. Use a prying tool of some sort to help you get it out. ONLY PRY FROM TOP AND BOTTOM NOT THE SIDES AND DON'T PRY ON THE GEAR TEETH!!!! Once the carrier is out use a flat round punch to tap out the roll pin and remove the cross shaft. from there remove one side at a time.
If it is a newer unit you will have to remove the roll pin and cross shaft in the housing then slide the cap that covers the c-clip over to remove them. Then pull the shafts.

http://www.richmondgear.com/powertrax/lrinstallation.html

I've seen and done both and they can be a pain.
Good luck,
Stukboy
 
The piece that is wedged in between the locker might be able to be knocked out with a screwdriver or a chisel.
 
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