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drum brake Q's

M

Mutant_Xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Susquehanna Valley
Do I need to disconnect the parking brake when changing the shoes? I can't get the drum back over the new shoes. And I'm having a hard time getting the return springs on because the parking brake lever and the trailing shoe are pushing the alignment plate out too far on the anchor pin.

Does the parking break link/strut/flat thing with the notches on both side, go over the trailing shoe and parking brake lever? I can't get both the shoe and lever in the notch.

On my 93 when I removed the shoes a spring fell out and I can't figure out where it went. It's smaller then the return springs and looks like what goes on the star adjuster lever in the pictures I found but, It only has a hook on one side and the other side goes strait out. I can't figure out how it would hook on to the adjuster lever. And also my adjuster lever has a spring on it that wraps around the pin that I pressed into the new shoe. Do they get two springs?

I've read Go jeeps write up and searched but this is my first time messing with drum brakes and now I understand why so many people hate them. Thank you for reading this and if you can help me out thank you even more. My jeep is a tripod right now until I can figure out what the heck I'm doing.
 
Mutant_Xj said:
Do I need to disconnect the parking brake when changing the shoes? I can't get the drum back over the new shoes. And I'm having a hard time getting the return springs on because the parking brake lever and the trailing shoe are pushing the alignment plate out too far on the anchor pin.

Does the parking break link/strut/flat thing with the notches on both side, go over the trailing shoe and parking brake lever? I can't get both the shoe and lever in the notch.

On my 93 when I removed the shoes a spring fell out and I can't figure out where it went. It's smaller then the return springs and looks like what goes on the star adjuster lever in the pictures I found but, It only has a hook on one side and the other side goes strait out. I can't figure out how it would hook on to the adjuster lever. And also my adjuster lever has a spring on it that wraps around the pin that I pressed into the new shoe. Do they get two springs?

I've read Go jeeps write up and searched but this is my first time messing with drum brakes and now I understand why so many people hate them. Thank you for reading this and if you can help me out thank you even more. My jeep is a tripod right now until I can figure out what the heck I'm doing.
Click to expand...

It's all right here : http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearDrums1.htm

All springs have some flavor of hook on them, so if it doesn't have one, it's broke. The adjuster lever spring, the one that goes around the pin, is one spring. The other one attaches to the other shoe and to the top of the adjuster, per the diagram.

By far the easiest way to do this is to take the other wheel off and look at that drum setup and imagine it on the other side of the truck.

I don't hate drums or carbs, but neither works as well as the newer technology :D

Ron
 
Do one side at a time. And no, the parking brake cable doesn't have to be disconnected. You will have to swap the arm to the new shoes though.

To check if the park brake cables are bound up or overadjusted:
There's a strut that goes in between both shoes, laterally right over the top of the axle shaft. It has a spring on one end only. When the shoes are adjusted up to the proper light drag, via the star adjuster down at the bottom, this strut should have some freeplay that's taken up by the spring. If there is no freeplay the cables are overadjusted or binding.
 
I got them back together monday morning. I had to loosen up the parking brake a good bit and that really helped. The spring I couldn't figure out goes from the bottom of one shoe to the other. I couldn't take both wheels off because I had wheel spacers on and with the one wheel up I couldn't get the spacer off. I know I could've used a pry bar between the studs but I was worried about damaging them. Thanks JJacobs and Zuki-Ron for the replies. Like usual First time I do something on the Heep it takes me 3 hours on the first side and 10 minutes on the next.
 
What you can do to get the wheel spacers off is put copper pipe sleeves around your studs before using a prybar. The copper is far softer than the steel studs and will be cut into by the threads instead of munging them up. You could probably also put the lugnuts back on and pry against those. Just be careful you don't bend the studs by prying too far out on them.

As for the spring at the bottom - that's the one that keeps the brake shoes pulled together onto the adjuster. It's called the "adjusting screw spring" or "shoe spring". The others are the "shoe return springs."
 
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