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Pin holes for RE 3.5" springs

Cottontail

Cottontail

Three-De Off-Road
NAXJA Member
Location
Nashville, TN
The RE lift instructions state they use a 3/8 inch center pin in the rear leafs, but because it is a stronger pin, it may be larger than the hole in the holder on the axle.

Sure enough, it is.

What do I use to enlarge the hole? I grabbed a 3/8th drill bit, but it is much tinier than the hole.

I did a search on this issue and the only thing I found was a thread with a suggestion to replace the pin in the new leaf pack to fit the existing hole.

Ideas?
 
3/8ths is the size of the threads, get a drill bit that matches the head and then drill the spring perches
 
I've seen it done both ways, drill out the hole on the perch, and grind down the bolt head. Either way works. :)
 
I picked up some 3/8ths cap head bolts to use as centering bolts for my 8.25 swap. (needed to redo the bolts anyway). The heads were too big to fit in the spring perches so I slapped the bolt in a cordless drill and headed over to the bench grinder. 2 minutes later it fit.
 
I'd rather grind the perch than the bolt, I like leaving more bearing area on the underside of the head of the bolt to avoid it pulling through the spring pack easier. Might just be me though, and I doubt it matters much.
 
Cottontail said:
The RE lift instructions state they use a 3/8 inch center pin in the rear leafs, but because it is a stronger pin, it may be larger than the hole in the holder on the axle.

Sure enough, it is.

What do I use to enlarge the hole? I grabbed a 3/8th drill bit, but it is much tinier than the hole.

I did a search on this issue and the only thing I found was a thread with a suggestion to replace the pin in the new leaf pack to fit the existing hole.

Ideas?
Click to expand...

Ran into this last night aswell. Just use a dremel to open the holes up. Don't use a step bit because you will drill right into the axle tube long before you open the hole up in the spring perch.

Also, make sure if your not using degree shims to check the depth of the pin in the perch. Mine would bottom out on the axle before the spring contacted the perch. I just took a grinder to the bottom if the centering pin and ground about a 1/4" off.

Good luck
 
LOW'N'SLOW said:
Ran into this last night aswell. Just use a dremel to open the holes up. Don't use a step bit because you will drill right into the axle tube long before you open the hole up in the spring perch.

Also, make sure if your not using degree shims to check the depth of the pin in the perch. Mine would bottom out on the axle before the spring contacted the perch. I just took a grinder to the bottom if the centering pin and ground about a 1/4" off.

Good luck
Click to expand...

You should have removed the spacer first!
 
All the center bolt does it hold the pack together untill the ubolts do there job as long as its strong enough to hold the pack together when the ubolts are lose its fine... u can always grab a slightly smaller bolt too...
 
89XJPioneer said:
All the center bolt does it hold the pack together untill the ubolts do there job as long as its strong enough to hold the pack together when the ubolts are lose its fine... u can always grab a slightly smaller bolt too...
Click to expand...

Uhmm no,it aligns the rear axle so your rig doesnt "crab" down the street.Doing things correctly is "always" better than ghetto engineering!
 
I have done this both ways.


1) First time I chucked the center pin up in the cordless and used the bench grinder to reduce the size of the pin head until if fit in the axle perch. I had to take like 1/16 of the head to make it fit in the hole.

2) Second time I used a drill to open up the perch on the axle. I think it was a 5/8 drill bit. Better measure to confirm.
 
RCP Phx said:
You should have removed the spacer first!
Click to expand...

Well seeing as you have about 7,440 more posts then I do, you must clearly be more intelligent then I. So with the photos below, would you be so kind as to show me this "Spacer", I'm sure I'm missing something here, but I'm hoping you'll be able to shine some of your wisdom uppon some of us "Less fortunate" folk.

This is a picture of the "Pin" that came out of my leaf pack that I had to grind down. (Not knowing of course there was a spacer I could remove) and the depth mic is showing the measurement from the spring perch to the axle tube.

2009-12-021913554.jpg



And this is the "Pin" that I can't find the "Spacer" on.

2009-12-021913447.jpg



So if you could be so kind as to point out this "Spacer" that I missed, I would greatly appreciate it since I'm getting ready to grind this one down so it doesn't bottom out on my axle tube.

Thanks
 
All the RE 1462's and 1463's I have bought have the spacer.This is a quote from RE's page......

Why are my center pins bottoming out on the axle tube?

Rubicon specs our leaf spring with spacers or longer heads on the spring pins. The reason for this is that most kits will require a shim of some sort. When adding the shim the pin height is usually reduced. If not using a shim and the pin hits the tube you can remove the spacer if equipped or grind the head of the pin down. Either way it is very important that the pin does not hit the tube of the axle before the spring is fully seated on the spring perch.
 
RCP Phx said:
All the RE 1462's and 1463's I have bought have the spacer.This is a quote from RE's page......

Why are my center pins bottoming out on the axle tube?

Rubicon specs our leaf spring with spacers or longer heads on the spring pins. The reason for this is that most kits will require a shim of some sort. When adding the shim the pin height is usually reduced. If not using a shim and the pin hits the tube you can remove the spacer if equipped or grind the head of the pin down. Either way it is very important that the pin does not hit the tube of the axle before the spring is fully seated on the spring perch.
Click to expand...

Probably has something to do with that "Made in India" sticker mine came with!! (n)
 
There are two fitment issues. One is the diameter of the pin. The other is the depth. Removing the spacer would solve the depth problem but won't help if the pin diameter is too large. Still need to grind or drill.
 
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