Crazy Oil Pressure With Puke Stall

Here's where I'm at I have a 96 Cherokee and I just replaced the rear main seal the oil pump and the oil pan gasket. The oil pressure instantly pinned the gauge above 80 and doesn't fluctuate like it used to prior to oil pump replacement. Jeep ran fine for a week with no leaks and weird starts occasionally. Yesterday had a check engine light which I had checked at autozone and it suggested timing which after research found out is controlled by the cps. Drove the jeep all day and had no issues then at twelve it started hesitating then died and in the process started seeping oil from the rear of the pan. This is the first time the jeep has made me tow it and I'm pissed. I don't understand did excessive oil pressure blow oil past the pan gasket? Should I now redo everything including the pump and rear main seal what else electrically would cause the jeep to die? I realize one is different than the other as far as the problems go but I cant help but think they are related in some way.HELP IM FRUSTRATED.:sure:

I've got think you have more than one problem. High oil pressure will not blow oil past the pan gasket. The oil pan/crankcase area is not pressurized like the oil galleries (drilled passages) lifters, bearings are. Sometimes (if the crankcase ventilation system is plugged) oil can come out of the dipstick, but it should not pressure out of the oil pan gasket/RMS area.

The most likely cause of not running is the CKP (crank position sensor). In your case, especially, I would pull a spark plug, just to see if it is oily. Too much oil backed up in the head could cause more oil to go down the valve guide, but this seems unlikely. You do need to diagnose your not running and the first step is to see if you have spark.

Could you have put the distributor back in one tooth off? It doesn't seem like it would run for hours and then quit if that was the case. Could the distributor base have turned from not being tight?

Pull a spark plug and check for spark first.

Thanks was a little crazy trying to figure out the issue and made going to sleep a problem. I'm starting fresh this morning I figure I'll redo the pan gasket and check for spark heck she may even start up so I can pull it closer to my tools. I appreciate your help. I thought that since the oil pump is run off the distributor that I may have advanced or retarded the timing installing the new pump. Breaking out the FSM and timing light and test for spark as well. This time on the pan gasket I'm going to use the black RTV to help hold it in place. :smoker:

You can't advance or retard the timing. That is controlled by the CKP. You CAN get the rotor and cap misaligned too far for the spark to jump the gap. If you are going to pull the pan again, I would check to make sure that the pressure relief piston in the oil pump isn't stuck.

Also (unrelated), this is a good time to verify torque on all of the main and rod bearings. They do tend to loosen over time as things settle in. Just put a torque wrench on them and bring them up if they are low, don't loosen first.

Is it an OE pump or a high volume pump?

it is an OE pump...

Lets take a moment and a**ume you have more than one problem.

Lets say your oil pressure sender is bad; it was Ok until you replaced the pump but couldn't handle the new higher pressure. Try testing the sender for resistance engine off and then running. From the FSM 90, 0 psi ~ 1 ohm; 40 psi ~ 46 ohm; 80 psi ~ 87 ohm.

Lets say you CCV is not functioning correctly. Wouldn't hardly be noticeable with a leaky rear main and a leaky pan gasket. With everything sealed back up a clogged CCV will pressurize the crankcase and force oil out through the seals and eventually into the air filter. Try cleaning the CCV system.

I wouldn't pull the hard things apart until I had checked/repaired the simple things first.

As winterbeater said, check for spark. If you don't have spark, check for 12v to the coil--no power, check the ASD relay, if you have power then I would suspect the CPS/CKP. Note, on the Renix there are three grounds at the dipstick tube--ICM, ECU, and o2 sensor. I don't know if the 96 is similar.