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Oil pan fitment?

dreher

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Minneapolis, MN
When swapping the starter out of my 95 XJ (4.0) the heep jumped off the jack and dented the crap out of the oil pan. Now it randomly pisses oil. Temps are dropping and snows coming so I need to get this dealt with asap.

The U pull has four 96's so I wanted to know if I can use one of those? Will it fit correctly coming form a donor Jeep?


Thanks
 
When swapping the starter out of my 95 XJ (4.0) the heep jumped off the jack and dented the crap out of the oil pan. Now it randomly pisses oil. Temps are dropping and snows coming so I need to get this dealt with asap.

The U pull has four 96's so I wanted to know if I can use one of those? Will it fit correctly coming form a donor Jeep?


Thanks

It should. The profile of the rails didn't change all the way up - I usually advise people to use the later sump gasket on the earlier engines, since it's one-piece moulded rubber and it definitely fits (I know - I used it on my 87, 88, and one of my 89's without incident.)
 
Thanks!

I believe I got a felpro gasket and it was the one suggested for a 95. Hope its good enough.

Nothing wrong with Fel-Pro gaskets, but get the 1996-up gasket. It's the one-piece moulded rubber gasket, and saves you a load of wrestling with parts...
 
Yup! I ran out to the garage real fast and it is one piece. First time I took a good look at it, nice gasket.
Besides cleaning the surface of the block and the pan do I need anything other than the gasket? RTV?
Any little tricks I should know about something so basic?
 
Yup! I ran out to the garage real fast and it is one piece. First time I took a good look at it, nice gasket.
Besides cleaning the surface of the block and the pan do I need anything other than the gasket? RTV?
Any little tricks I should know about something so basic?

Well, you could replace a few of the bolts with strategically located studs, that will help when you raise the pan and gasket into place then you can get some nuts started to hold it up there.

Use some fishing line or thin nylon thread to tie the gasket to the pan in two places on each side of the pan, then when you raise the pan and gasket to the studs the gasket will be held in place, then after the nuts are started just snip the line and pull it out.
 
Well, you could replace a few of the bolts with strategically located studs, that will help when you raise the pan and gasket into place then you can get some nuts started to hold it up there.

Use some fishing line or thin nylon thread to tie the gasket to the pan in two places on each side of the pan, then when you raise the pan and gasket to the studs the gasket will be held in place, then after the nuts are started just snip the line and pull it out.

That fishing line trick makes sense - but I've not needed more than about four studs (I think I put mine in the second or third hole from each end of the rails.)

The screws are threaded 1/4"-20, and I think I just got a SBChevvy valve cover stud kit (get the one for the stamped covers) to get the studs and nuts. You can do something similar with the valve cover, in fact - just get the kit for the cast valve covers for SBChevvy instead.
 
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