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Popping and creaking after RE LA install

TheSandman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Richmond, VA
So after installing my RE 7.5" LA kit, I'm beginning to develop a popping and creaking under my feet. Its been happening after about a week of driving.

The only thing I didn't do in the instructions was what they call "skip" welding along the long arm mounts. I also didn't install the outer plates that bolt from long arm mount to the body pinch weld. Would not doing either of these cause my problems?

Any advice/help would be appreciated

thanks
 
why wouldnt you mount the outer plates? they are obviously there for a reason. (structural integrity?)

i was missing a bolt for the belly pan and have been freaking out about that, couldnt imagine not running all of that hardware.

how do your joints look? are your springs seated correctly? also what tie rod are you running? the bolts that tighten my tie rod (hd zj) hit my sway bar bracket when i turn the wheel. that could be it.
 
I didn't put the outer plates on because I have rock sliders that are tight against the pinch seam.

Plus most long arm systems don't use outer plates with their mounting systems. I mean I know that every kit is different, but generally speaking, the long arm crossmember and mounting setup is essentially the same. I'll check everything this weekned for security.

Also, I am running the ZJ setup and ended up having to put the sway bar lower mount on the outside to clear the steering, springs are seated correctly, joints look good. I'm going to grease them again this weekend to see if that helps also.
 
Plus most long arm systems don't use outer plates with their mounting systems.

My BDS kit has outer plates.

After installing it, I got creaks and groans for about 2 weeks.

I went back and retorqued and regreased everything and it all went away.

Like what was said above...... Follow the directions.
 
My BDS kit has outer plates.

After installing it, I got creaks and groans for about 2 weeks.

I went back and retorqued and regreased everything and it all went away.

Like what was said above...... Follow the directions.

I've checked out rusty's, T&T, iron rock, and clayton's and none of them use the outer plates. I guess I should call RE and see what they say about it. Only problem is my sliders are welded on, so I don't think I can get the outer plates on at all.
 
I've checked out rusty's, T&T, iron rock, and clayton's and none of them use the outer plates. I guess I should call RE and see what they say about it. Only problem is my sliders are welded on, so I don't think I can get the outer plates on at all.

So cut the ends of the outer plates and weld them to your sliders. That's what we do in the shop and haven't had any issues. You'll need those plates on or you'll need to reinforce your unibody to keep it from twisting.
 
I've checked out rusty's, T&T, iron rock, and clayton's and none of them use the outer plates. I guess I should call RE and see what they say about it. Only problem is my sliders are welded on, so I don't think I can get the outer plates on at all.

um I know for sure TNT does
 
So cut the ends of the outer plates and weld them to your sliders. That's what we do in the shop and haven't had any issues. You'll need those plates on or you'll need to reinforce your unibody to keep it from twisting.

Hmmm. I guess I could do that. It just doesn't seem like those plates would do much for frame stiffening just from bolting to the body pinch seam.

He's not talking about strips, he's talking about the ones that go to the pinch seam. ;)

Correct
 
Hmmm. I guess I could do that. It just doesn't seem like those plates would do much for frame stiffening just from bolting to the body pinch seam.

It's load distribution. The same can be done by attaching angle iron along the length of the unibody. You just need to stiffen the thing up to keep the spreading to a minimum. Think of it this way anyhow: If you weld it to the sliders, it'll be that much stronger...distributing the load across the sliders. ;)
 
It's load distribution. The same can be done by attaching angle iron along the length of the unibody. You just need to stiffen the thing up to keep the spreading to a minimum. Think of it this way anyhow: If you weld it to the sliders, it'll be that much stronger...distributing the load across the sliders. ;)

Makes sense, guess I have some work to do
 
I've checked out rusty's, T&T, iron rock, and clayton's and none of them use the outer plates. I guess I should call RE and see what they say about it. Only problem is my sliders are welded on, so I don't think I can get the outer plates on at all.

One thing to note...Claytons also requires you to weld the mounts to the frame. So of course they don't have the outer plate, they don't need them if they're welded.

~Scott
 
That's the spirit. :) Not everything is gonna bolt on. Welders solve all kinds of problems. :D

Guess I should just weld them at the bottom of the slider huh?

One thing to note...Claytons also requires you to weld the mounts to the frame. So of course they don't have the outer plate, they don't need them if they're welded.

~Scott


If I decide not to bolt the outer plates up, I will probably weld the mounts. Although in the instructions, it tells you to "skip" weld, which I guess means small beads around the whole mount.
 
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